Fork seal replacement...

Im trying to replace my fork seals on a 77 kz1000. simple right... not so much. i removed the front wheel and drained the fork oil now im trying to remove the tubes by removing the allen screw in the bottom. the screw turns but nothing happens. i can hear the spring on the inside turning but the screw never looses or gains tension. any help would be appreciated. thanks

bubba,
You need to have a special tool to grab on the doohickey inside, before the allen bolt will be able to turn out. I have 81 kz1000 csr. I don't know if the internal configuration is the same, but I made my own "special tool" with a length of steel bar, a short portion as a t-handle and an 1/2"dia x1 1/4" "A325 hardened bolt" welded to the end. The size of the bolt head is perfect for the "doohickey". Sorry for the terminology but I am operating on my last can of brain juice tonight. Look at the parts diagram on line and you'll see the part I'm talking about.

Here is a sample of what needs to be done.

Hitting it with an impact wrench works too if they're not stuck on too tight. Short bursts. There's a couple good threads here about this.

Another tip. If you haven't pulled your seals out yet, I would highly recommend a seal puller. My local shop lent me theirs and I pulled them out on the spot.

Never thought of the impact wrench Idea. That is great! I made my own tool but I will use the Impact wrench next time.

You should do a thorough search of this site...fork seal replacement has been has been extensively covered...I have several KZ1000A1's and have replaced the seals on a number of my bikes...and it can be a bear...the impact wrench works (sometimes)...other times you will have to make a tool to hold the inner fork tubes (sometimes this 'special tool' can be as simple as a broom handle cut at a 45 degree angle to hold the inner tube).

l0g1c wrote:

Hitting it with an impact wrench works too if they're not stuck on too tight. Short bursts. There's a couple good threads here about this.

Another tip. If you haven't pulled your seals out yet, I would highly recommend a seal puller. My local shop lent me theirs and I pulled them out on the spot.

Ditto........hit it with the impact. Problem solved.

This is related:

when I had mine off and apart for the major rehab, I had an "accident" when I was buffing the lower aluminum half. I caught on the wheel and catapulted to the floor and put a dent in the seal end of the tube. S#$T! I said about as loud as I could, felt better but it didn't help, it was still bent.

so I turned a piece of steel with a bull nose that fit the id of the other one and pressed it in on a hydrolic press. pushed it right out no problem.




The double end is a my bad the first time made it too small so had to re do it.. story of my life....

All. in removing the lower allen bolt. loosening & removing are 2 different things.especially w/bikes of our age. tips for those using hand tools. loosen top nut after easing tension off upper triple clamp bolts. (don't remove) before removing fork from bike. drain oil. remove fork/s. now is the time to attempt allen bolt, while spring etc is still providing some friction against valving.it's common for lower valve to want to spin rather than release bolt.sometimes you can load the assembled shock enough to coax it out.if not, building a tool is opt. easier is w/air tools. I usually hit 'em with my 1/2" air impact. if that loosens, but doesn't remove use a high speed 3/8" to remove. this combo works for @ 98% of jobs. If you lack the tools, try showing up at the local shop with a 12 pack and ask if anyone might be intested in removing "these 2 screws". Luck G

An impact wrench may help; I used one to spin the allen bolt out without a problem while on the second leg I had to drill off the head as NOTHING would loosen it. However, you still need to make, borrow, steal a special tool to hold the fork cylinder even if you manage to remove the allen bolt using an impact wrench. This is because you need to hold the cylinder during re-assembly so you can tighten the allen bolt to the proper torque. Be sure to consult the FSM for torque level and appropriate locking agent before re-assembly. There are other threads on this site that describe and picture various tools that have been improvised for this purpose. Making one isn't very difficult once you figure out if the top of your fork cylinders have a hex depression or just a round hole. Ed

Once you get them apart using impact tools, it's easy to see what's needed to make your holder tool. I never bothered and just tighten the allen back up with an impact tool as torque is not critical and it's a large enough bolt where it won't strip using impact tools to tighten. No doubt torqing to spec would be a better way to do it, but not necessary. All I've done, I've only had one that impact tools did not work on, and the allen head rounded off and no way to loosen. I thought I was in a world of trouble, but as luck would have it, there's a nice allen hole in the bolt to center your drill bit on then the instant the head is drilled down to the threads it pops right off and since the bolt is always in oil, the remainder of the bolt will screw right out with your fingers.

Take a broom stick and cut the end at a 45 degree angle. shove it in the hole to hold the dampner. Use a air wrench on the allen head. It will come right out.