New Chain O-ring or Non ist that the ?

also, buy a install tool, cost is about 20 bucks, but beats the hell out of a smashed finger,, and dont ask how I know

I'd be careful about that $20 price. New DID chains require a special rivetting tool for the master links on their O ring and X ring chains. The genuine DID tool is nice but spendy....~US$120.00!!!:ohmy: Even the knockoff tool for DID is still ~$70.00 and it's crap.
RK also makes a special tool for their rivetted master link chains although I'm not sure of pricing. It'll probably be in the same price range.

Kcam, keep in mind that MOST, if not ALL, modern O ring and X ring chains come with a rivet style master link and there are usually NO/NO clip style links available for these chains, sooooo......you WILL have to get it rivetted, either by you or someone who has the special tool. You do NOT want to take a chance on not having the master link rivetted correctly. Massive damage and/or personal injury are always awaiting someone who doesn't install and rivet a chain correctly.
This might be one time it would be better to deal locally if possible and find someone in your area who sells good brand name chains AND has the proper rivetting tool AND will do the rivetting job for a reasonable price. You'll want to think carefully about this before steaming ahead blindly.

First, some education regarding chains. NEVER buy a non-oring chain. This is like buying a suit made out of paper. It will work fine for about 15 minutes and then the initial cheap price won't seem like such a great idea. OK, there are lots of types of chains. Get a replacement for the pitch and number of links which is the same as your OEM chain recommendation in your shop manual. You can pick up a sprocket set as well. Since you are not an expert on chains, call www.z1enterprises.com and buy your chain from them and let them know you need a sprocket to give you better gas mileage than the old one. An "endless chain" has no master link. A master link chain is broken and the two ends held together with a masterlink. I prefer an endless chain. Anyway, Z1Enterprises.com has good pricing and better customer service. You can also get chains other than O-ring. Many will last longer. Most chains sold through a dealer should carry a wear rating. Many of the more expensive chains are rated to wear many times longer than a regular chain or even an O-ring chain.

H2RICK wrote:

Kcam, keep in mind that MOST, if not ALL, modern O ring and X ring chains come with a rivet style master link and there are usually NO/NO clip style links available for these chains, sooooo......you WILL have to get it rivetted.

As I said before, all you have to do is call Z1 enterprises: they sell RK brand X ring chains which are top quality (at the lowest price I saw anywhere on the net) and they sell the MATCHING clip master link for the chain. Do not use any other link, that one is specifically for that chain and you can install it with pliers. Life is too short to do things the hard way.

Ok Thanks so much for every bodies help. A couple more questions and I will be done.

If I call Z1 will they have the information to what size chain I need, meaning number of links?

Also will I need to know how many teeth are on my sprockets or will they be able to tell me?

Thanks again for your help!!!

kcam1999 wrote:

Ok Thanks so much for every bodies help. A couple more questions and I will be done.

If I call Z1 will they have the information to what size chain I need, meaning number of links?

Also will I need to know how many teeth are on my sprockets or will they be able to tell me?

Thanks again for your help!!!

They will know all of that and also what optional size sprockets they have to fit your bike. Usually the stock front is 16T and they carry both 15T and 17T to go up or down in ratio. They often have larger rear sprockets as well. Changing the rear sprocket may require getting a shorter or longer chain.

Not wanting to beat this issue to death, in short form not all non o-ring chains are cheap. They are used on superbikes exclusivly. And if you ask any old biker who oiled his chain every ride, he will tell you how long it lasted, and the answer is far different than what your hearing here. Gas mileage was mentioned, what was not is the fact that oring chains have MUCH more friction than non o'ring chains. Call z1 and tell them you want a light chain your choice on which, one with a clip masterlink, and that you'd like to know about strength, weight, sprockets, and price. One last thing is that I don't know for the life of me why anyone would want an enless chain, especially on a 650cc bike. If you opt for a non oring chain ask about a good chain lube to go on it.

I am an old biker (if riding legally for the past 44 years qualifies me) and I can tell you that the o-ring chains far outlast the non-orings no matter how much you oil them. My factory competition BSA engine that I bought from Gary Nixon in the 60's had little tube attached to the engine case that exited directly over the countersprocket. This tube spit oil on the chain as the engine ran (sort of a dry-sump breather). The chain, and my back and neck, were always well oiled, but still the non-o-ring (D.I.D.) chains didn't last for squat (a few thousand miles at best). The endless o-ring chain that came on my new KZ650C1 that I bought in April 1977 (and still own) lasted more than 36,000 miles with only moderate maintenance. I replaced the sprockets and installed a non-endless D.I.D. O-ring chain more than 10,000 miles ago and the chain and sprockets still look like new. I opted for non-endless because the factory chains were $300; since then I snagged a NOS Kawasaki chain from eBay for $25 (whoohoo!!) and if I live long enough to wear out the D.I.D. I'll put the NOS endless on the bike. Despite my age, I still ride in a very spirited fashion (although I can't get the Michelin PZ2 competition tires anymore) so the chains on my bike haven't been living an easy highway cruising life. Incidentally, I highly recommend "Chain Wax" as the chain lube. Ed

What do you think about a stock 1979 KZ750 chain that only has 9000 miles. The sprockets look great, but Im wondering if its worth replacing the chain now to extend my sprocket life of if I should not mess with it until its kicked.

Some chain and sprocket related websites:

1. www.gearingcommander.com (helps figure gear ratio's and chain speeds)
2. www.sprocketspecialists.com
3. www.pmfronline.com

handsingloves wrote:

What do you think about a stock 1979 KZ750 chain that only has 9000 miles. The sprockets look great, but Im wondering if its worth replacing the chain now to extend my sprocket life of if I should not mess with it until its kicked.

That chain is probably already hosed. I remember how crappy the original chain was on my '79 KZ750, it went south pretty fast (had to keep adjusting for the stretch). Even if it only has 9k miles, it's still 30 years old.