Tips on removing 630 drive chain master link?

I did do a search on this, but couldn't find anything relevant....

The 900 had a new chain put on 4 years ago and then was left to sit until a couple of months ago. I wanted to remove it, clean it up and see if it was salvagable. It's very stiff and there's some surface rust on the sides of the chain.

The FSM is for a continuous chain and says to loosen the rear tire and pull it off the sprockets. No go, can't see how it could possibly come off the front sprocket...no room.

Anyways, the current chain has a master link and I got the clip off easy enough, but was wondering if there was a trick to pulling the rest of the link apart. I was hesitant to start using my BFH on it last night and instead left the link soaking in some PB Blaster while I researched and checked with you'all.

Thanks!

they make a tool for it,but i just use the bfh and center punch technique normally. :laugh:

If you want to replace the chain with a new one (and not the endless type) a few ways of removing the old chain:

1. Hacksaw with a good blade
2. Electric die grinder with a cut off blade
3. Small electric 4" grinder

Just cut through the chain any place and dispose of it.

It's recommended that you replace both sprockets at the same time as old stuff will rapidly wear out the new stuff.

Before removing the chain use it to help remove the engine sprocket by providing leverage when loosening the sprocket nut. A 1/2" breaker bar and the correct socket to fit the nut helps a lot. Have some one hold the rear brake while you turn the nut.

it might help to have it on the back/top of the rear sporket to hold the chain from bouncing as you tap the master links pins side through like plummen said

MFolks Wrote: "Before removing the chain use it to help remove the engine sprocket by providing leverage when loosening the sprocket nut. A 1/2" breaker bar and the correct socket to fit the nut helps a lot. Have some one hold the rear brake while you turn the nut."

This great advice should be memorized by every KZ owner! When I replaced my original KZ650 chain (years ago) I removed (cut) the chain before loosening the countersprocket nut then had to use a piece the chain as part of a homemade contraption to hold the countersprocket while I loosened the nut. If I had only known. Ed

trianglelaguna wrote:

it might help to have it on the back/top of the rear sporket to hold the chain from bouncing as you tap the master links pins side through like plummen said

Sounds like that might work. I'd already removed the rear tire, but I could probably slip it back on to do that.

Thanks!