Handlebar accelerator grip sticking.

So, I finally made it around to updating my handlebars. I bought EuroBars at the end of August, but just haven't found time for it until now. This is basically a newbies first bar change.

Everything was very straight forward since the wires were already on the outside of the bars. All I needed to do was unbolt things, and bolt them back into place with the new bars.

The old bars were the mini ape hangers, so I do have some excess in my cables, but I will worry about that later. It is not enough to bind, or to keep it from turning smoothly.

The problem I am having is that the accelerator grip does not seem to return to its normal position smoothly. If I let up on it, it sticks for a few seconds, before it returns to idle slowly.

The more I rode it, it seemed to get better. Which may mean I am just jumping the gun on posting this. It could be that if I take it out a few more times, it will work itself out, but who knows.

I did grease the bar before I put on that grip. I am assuming this is correct, since the bar I took off was greased in this area. I used PolyLube 1000, which is bearing grease formulated for bicycles. It is what I had easily at hand, and I assumed it was close enough to whatever was recommended.

I will say, the handling through the corners with the bar change is dramatically improved. I feel like I have better balance on the turn now, then I did with the old set.

is it possible that when you put the throttle assy back on that maybe the bar itself is hitting the handgrip inner end?? just a thought

Should be no need for any lube between the throttle sleeve and handlebar.

Would also assure sufficient slack in throttle cable adjustments, at both ends on each cable, and no binding anywhere. Should be virtually zero drag when inner cable is being pulled either way through its sheath.

Would lightly grease ferrule connections at both ends on each cable.

Also check linkage and action at carb for any binding. Okay to lightly oil.

Good Luck!

I always grease under the throttle on the handlebar. I just do. I don't know why but it seems like a good idea. Anyway, the most likely reason the new throttle isn't rolling smoothly is that the throttle cable is most likely not routed correctly. You might edit your signature by going to your profile page and putting in the bike type (year/model) and your location in the event someone is closeby who can help in a situation like this.

This is for a 650 but here is the proper routing for cables and wiring.

wiredgeorge wrote:

I always grease under the throttle on the handlebar. I just do. I don't know why but it seems like a good idea....

While the earlier FSM (73Z1-76KZ900) is silent about it, the FSM for 77-79 KZ1000 does indeed call for greasing the handlebar under the throttle sleeve.

Chilton's Z1 manual doesn't mention lubing the handlebar area, nor does the original Z1 owner's manual.

The early throttle sleeves are some plastic composition. Perhaps later models changed to a metal sleeve. Uncertain whether this change would have made a difference, or if petroleum based lube might possibly be harmful to the plastic.

The objective is a freely rotating throttle sleeve with minimal friction between it and the handlebar. The throttle should snap closed when released, via pull from the strong return spring on the carb assembly.

Good Luck!

Referencing the pic - 81 KZ650-CSR.

The throttle should be lubed.
From the looks of the pic, loosen the throttle cable locknuts up at the switch housing & rotate them so they aren't binding - see if that helps. As mentioned make sure the throttle wasn't rubbing the bar end. JMK.

I've told my story before. I put the superbike bars on the KZ1000MKII and even with new shorter cables, there's no adjustment in this world to the cables that would make the push/pull dual cables work without binding. Eventually gave up and used only the pull cable to fix this. Later put back on the stock bars with both push/pull and no problem.

I usually lube under the throttle too. Not a lot and mostly to keep moisture out since my tubes are metal. Also if you have too much cable and there are sweeping curves the cable will be in more contact with the sheath and more friction will result. Less cable + less curves = less friction. Lube them up too. And be careful what you use. Some lubes are sticky and gooey after a while. I made the mistake of grabbing an old chain lube and used it on a cable with an injector. The results were not pretty. Gluck!

JMKZHI wrote:

... From the looks of the pic, the first thing I'd do is loosen the throttle cable locknuts up at the switch housing & rotate them so they aren't binding....

Again looking at the pic, I concur with JMK. It does appear the cable elbows at the switch housing are preventing a smooth gradually routed turn for the cable.

Presumably, there's a locknut holding each elbow in position aganst the switch housing. Could experiment by loosening both lock nuts and allowing the elbows to assume their "natural" position (probably pointing straighter out towards the front), and leave the locknut loose while opening the throttle and allowing it to snap back closed on its own. This "natural" positioning may resolve the problem, and if so the locknuts may be re-tightened in the non-binding position.

And as already suggested, assure the handlebar itself isn't protruding beyond end of the throttle sleeve whereby the hand grip rubs against end of the handlebar.

Good Luck!

Thanks for the replies. Could be either one, or both... The grip against the end of the bar, or the cable binding. I pushed the grip all the way onto the bar before I tightened it into place, and the cables are a bit of a clustered mess right now since I didn't adjust them for the lower bars.

i will try tinkering with both things, and see what my results are.