How Do You Adjust the Steering Stem Bearing?

The manual is pretty useless on this: it says if you can grab the forks and wobble them front to rear, the bearing is adjusted too loose. If the sterring is so tight it binds, it's too tight.

DUH....

But, the setting is a torque value on the stem bearing adjust nut... which is impossible to torque because you have to turn it with a hook-end spanner that could not be connected to a torque wrench.

Anyway, I had my front wheel up and mine was set too tight because it had a sort of "detent" feel as I turned it, and it had definite drag to it. Felt much better after I loosened it a bit. The place I left it is nice and free but I don't feel any front to rear wobble in the fork with my hands pulling at the bottom.

I assume there is a better way to set it than just tightening until the play in the fork is gone?

bountyhunter wrote:

... was set too tight because it had a sort of "detent" feel as I turned it....

Thinking the detent feel is when the ball bearings roll past dents in the race.

For consideration:
Z1E's tapered bearing

Good Luck!

thats the same way ive always done it and havent had one fall off yet anyway!:laugh:

Yea the detent is normal, first pothole the front wheel hits by 100 miles the races get a slight dent, and the dent gets a little bigger every pothole for the rest of eternity, so after 100,000 of them you'll definately have that nice detent in the straight ahead position. I don't know how to tighten them either, just tighten um until you can detect bind, then back off slightly. You'll still have the detent, you'll need tapered bearings to get rid of that.

RonKZ650 wrote:

Yea the detent is normal, first pothole the front wheel hits by 100 miles the races get a slight dent, and the dent gets a little bigger every pothole for the rest of eternity, so after 100,000 of them you'll definately have that nice detent in the straight ahead position.

Hmmm... I never thought of that. I guess that explains it.:laugh:

I adapted the steering stem bolt spanner wrench so I could torque the bolt to specs. I started by drilling and tapping 2 holes in a flat bar and drilling holes in the spanner to match. I bolted the spanner to the flat bar and center punched a spot 7” from the spanner lug (where it would center on the steering stem bolt). I drilled a hole there and filed it square to match my 3/8” torque wrench. The added length of adds leverage so you MUST calculate the appropriate torque wrench setting to achieve the correct torque on the steering stem bolt. Here’s the formula:

TA x L

---

= TW
L + A

L = Effective length of the wrench as described below.

Dial Wrenches = The measured distance from the center of the square drive to the center ring or notch on the handle.

Micrometer Wrenches = The measured length from the center of the square drive to the center of the handle, with the wrench set at the desired torque reading

A = The measured length from the center of the adapter drive to the center of the wrench square drive.
TA = (Desired Torque) The torque value designated for the fastener with or without an adapter.
TW = (New Setting) The torque setting on the wrench allowing for the added length of the adapter. This reading will be lower than the desired torque.


In my case, using the 7” spanner/adapter, and desiring 260 inch pounds of torque on the steering stem bolt, the formula looks like this:

260 x 8.17

---

= 140.0
8.17 + 7

So, I set my torque wrench at 140 inch pounds to apply 260 inch pounds of torque on the steering stem nut. Your numbers will be different depending on the length of your wrench and adapter and the amount of torque you desire.

For more info see www.cditorque.com/main.html click on “TORQUE FACTS” then “USE OF ADAPTERS.”

you sir are a genius!:laugh:

I just replaced mine on th 1000 from a pot hole hit at 70mph,,, friggin hurt my teeth even hurt, and I got the hard detent in the steering.
in addition I got a shutter when slowing down, going to take it out this weekend to make sure nothing else has a issue.
send rob at z1 a email he will get the right bearings for you

Mine only has a slight detent that you can barely feel and only if the front wheel is lifted. I just set it by the manual method where you tighten the stem nut until you feel resistance and then go 1/16 turn farther. It seems OK now, I was just wondering if there was some trick to it I should know.

I like the home made tool idea..... I make lots of useful tools (especially for my gunsmithing), most are made from either popsicle sticks or coat hanger wire...:laugh:

BTW: the manual spec on mine says 20 - 24 ft-lbs of torque on the stem bearing nut which seemed kind of high to me....

I thought you get the front end up, and center the steering. Then a slight tap on the end of the handlebar should send the front end slowly to the steering stop. Tighten or loosen as needed. That's how I did mine, anyway.

That tool is trick alright, very nice.

Notches in steering, while typical of 30+ year old bikes are bad. causes are usually damaged races and bearings.other causes are restrictive cables/wiring/caked grease and other interfearing stuff. anything that causes bars to find it's own path are a nusance at best and should be addressed. naked triple trees cab=n be torqued by 1st tightening to @ 30 FT LBS, LOOSENED, THEN TIGHTENED TO 4-8 INCH LBS. the aim here being to settle races/bearings, then to eliminate any slack. Front end fitted, tighten bearings til front wheel movement is @ 2" to eithr side before wheel flopps to side. again, if there is any notch, bearings/races are at fault. heavy steering oscilating bars are signs of damage/tight races. stem movement loose/damaged races. G