Chain Rivet Tool Actually required?

Hey all,

Question, is a Chain Rivet Tool Actually required?

Yes of course I realize this is the recomended best method to follow but can this be accomplished SAFELY with out it using "vise grips, vise, hammer and center punch etc...)

I also know that Z1 has them for $49.99. I just hate buying a tool I'll use once, maybe twice in the next 5 years for this bike is only goig to be a weekend trips, not many miles throughout any given year.

Thoughts and preferably other methods welcomed.

Thanks,

OMR

Well, I've got five (5) bikes that I have or will replace the chain on...this doesn't count all those bikes that I'll own in the future (shhhh...mi esposa doesn't know about those yet...) so I invested in a nice one from Z1E...It certainly makes the chain removal process easier...but as you pointed out, if it is a single event, you can fab something that'll work instead. Remember, if you have an original chain (e.g. endless) you'll still have to use an angle grinder to knock off one side of a peened link.

Angle grinder and vice grip/center punch method, yep, I have done this on previous dirt bike chains with no problems. Same time, the KZ900 has a huge mount of more torque than any other bike I have ever owned.

Any others have had any issues with the vice/center punch method?

Ah crap, I should just invest the $50 and get on with it...
Damn you Jeff @ Z1.... hahahahahaha....


OMR

Z1 also sells a master link separately.

I know it may not be recommended by some. There was a discussion on using master links a while back and 95%+ said they've used a master link with no problems.
I've had one on my chain since the '80s, and will be buying a new chain and master link this Winter.

It's worth it. Piece of mind and less knuckle busting.

Plus your the guy with the correct tool for bro's. Worth future beer delivery for buying that one unit loaning it out.

Not to start a debate on this but I have had the retaining clip pop off. I like having to cut these new chains off in time of need.

Less potential for disaster if the whole assembly failed.

What size chain does your bike have?

I run a master link on the 630 chain on both my LTD and my Turbo. I've been known to go through the gears on both WOT (ok, maybe not too bright) with no chain issues (can't say the same for clutch issues on the LTD). If the master link can handle like 112 or so Horses that the turbo puts out, you should be fine (assuming a 630 chain) on a KZ. Only thing I do is check the master link often as it would really suck if the clip backed out....

If you always remember,
You'll never forget . . .

To install the master link with its closed end as the leading edge.

I believe, but am not absolutely positive, that a primary reason for this is to prevent a pebble or some other road debris from striking the open end of the clip and possibly loosening or knocking the clip off or out of position.

Have always used the master link style chains with no problems whatever. But am super careful about correct installation of the master link, side plate (often a "press" fit), and clip.

Good Luck!

Closed link towards the front... yes indeed.

I have a 630 chain and considering the pain in the ass in using a closed loop chain (take swing arm and rear tire off) I decided to stick with the clip master link that I purchased at the time of the chain from Z1.

Since this link was designed & offered (RK chains) for this given chain, figured what the hell should be just fine.

Thanks all...

OMR

BTW, I will have images tomorrow and I will post regarding the 13.5mm offset counter sprocket and chain frame clearances. Basically, it left ~ 1/8" clearance to the frame.
Perfecto!