need to change out rear disc pads, need help!

I have a 78650SR, rear disc brakes- needs new pads for sure, there is a slight grinding noise just when I roll the bike.
I opened the cap and there's not much pad left from what I can see.
The rotor is grooved on both sides - can these be turned?
A friend said even with the grooves new pads will work fine, is this true?
Also, I have a Haynes manual wich has no info on rear disc, only drum, is there a link or any info anyone can give me on how to tackle this job?
FWIW I plan on ordering pads through Z1 Ent. a soon as I get a response or two on this.
Thanks guys!

Personally(and this is only MY opinion) I would NOT get that rotor turned,and yes,just go ahead and install new pads.
When you do this,make sure you seat the new pads.Just drag your rear brake for a while at LOW speeds until the pads wear to the shape of the rotor.Do it in short applications,so you don't over-heat the rotor.
Turning that rotor will weaken it,if it's in real bad condition now.
Eventually you will want to search out a new one,but in the meantime,and for the price of a set of pads...I say go for it.

tgutz wrote:

I have a 78650SR, rear disc brakes- needs new pads for sure, there is a slight grinding noise just when I roll the bike.
I opened the cap and there's not much pad left from what I can see.
The rotor is grooved on both sides - can these be turned?

Depends how deep the grooves are and how thick the rotors are.

One thing I have used to cut down rotor ridges: take the disc off and use a medium grit sharpening stone as a block to scrub the rotor faces. use some oil and go for it.

You can simply install new pads and let them cut themselves in. Be warned, you will have poor brakes until the pads succeed in flattening the rotor face enough to get good contact.

BTW: I found good used rotors for mine on ebay for $10 each.

If the pads are anything like the 1000's they are easy to change. Pull the cap off, take out the two cotter pins, slide the straight pins out, pull the pads out, put the little spring things on the new pads with the thin metal plates, push the pistons in with a screwdriver, put the pads in and all the pins and such. You will probably have to open the bleeder to get the pistons pushed in so make sure you bleed the brake when done.

As long as you have to bleed the system, might as well flush it. All that takes is a few more pulls on the brake lever.....I just let the pads fit themselves to the disc. You just have to be aware the bike will not stop as quick while wearing in, as posted above....chris3

[, put the little spring things on the new pads with the thin metal plates, ]

Are the plates definately necessary?
I didnt put them back on and now I cant get any pressure built up in the system at all! Is there a certain way they go on?
Also, when bleeding - please explain the process for the 78 kz650sr - my manual only has rear drum , not disc.
thanks