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- JMKZHI
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Last edit: 04 Dec 2008 06:32 by JMKZHI.
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- steell
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Re: Rear axle nut torque
08 Jun 2008 04:47
Hmm, don't know as I have never torqued one.
I just tighten it really tight with a 12" adjustable, then install the cotter pin to keep it from loosening.
Since you are not preloading any bearings by tightening the axle nut, I never worried about torquing it. Due to the set up of the spacers and bearings, there is basically a solid sleeve between the swingarm that you are clamping.
I just tighten it really tight with a 12" adjustable, then install the cotter pin to keep it from loosening.
Since you are not preloading any bearings by tightening the axle nut, I never worried about torquing it. Due to the set up of the spacers and bearings, there is basically a solid sleeve between the swingarm that you are clamping.
KD9JUR
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- JMKZHI
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Last edit: 04 Dec 2008 06:32 by JMKZHI.
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- bountyhunter
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Re: Rear axle nut torque
08 Jun 2008 14:19 - 08 Jun 2008 14:20
JMKZHI wrote:
My bike came with a dedicate box end wrench and a little extender handle for that nut, as well as for the brake caliper holder nut. I just crank the axle nut down REAL tight and see where the next groove is for the cotter pin and bump it to that groove. I have no idea what the torque is, it's as tight as I can get it with the supplied tool.Well, that's what I've alway done as well - just kinda embarrased to ask. :blush: I tighten it tight w a crescent wrench, then tighten it one more notch on the castle nut so that I can install the cotter pin. JMK.
1979 KZ-750 Twin
Last edit: 08 Jun 2008 14:20 by bountyhunter.
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- RonKZ650
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Re: Rear axle nut torque
08 Jun 2008 14:54
That's right, the specified torque is as tight as you can tighten it to get a groove aligned to install the kotter pin or whatever it's officially called. This is direct from Kawasaki.
Well that's the way to do it, direct or not.
321,000 miles on KZ's that I can remember. Not going to see any more.
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