Custom Pivot Bolt

I'm now thinking about using an adjustable king pin reamer, I reckon this will do the job and keep the holes reamed concentric and in line. Can anyone think of any problems this could cause or I might face?
My old man has a few adjustable hand reamers I'm going to have a root around to see if there's anything suitable.

A reamer is the best solution, a lot better than a drill.

You only need to remove .020" fom the wall thickness to make the hole .040" (actually it's .039xxx) larger.

Problem is you need a ring gauge to set an adjustable reamer accurately.

What I was going to do was to locate the reamer in the hole, and adjust in position...

But I've completely changed tack now, I'm not going to ream the holes, I've found a new way using inner sleeves from Suzuki models that use a 16mm spindle with a little adjustment, I'll start a new thread for this:
kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&...d=5&id=222082#222082

I tried to post the link to the new thread, but it didn't work, can anyone have a go for me?

Here you go: CLICK.

Interesting, do keep us posted please.

I just want to make sure I get this right the first time.

It seems like the reamer is the best option but also the priciest.

Will either one of these work?

tinyurl.com/6bdxft
tinyurl.com/5bsqzz


Steel - You live just north of Indy, correct?

Voodoosoup, check out my post on this subject, onkelb put a link to the thread in the post just above yours. Mine is all bolted up now and works a treat, with no drilling or reaming frames - so no crabbing swingarms!!

Voodoosoup wrote:

I just want to make sure I get this right the first time.

It seems like the reamer is the best option but also the priciest.

Will either one of these work?

tinyurl.com/6bdxft
tinyurl.com/5bsqzz


Steel - You live just north of Indy, correct?

Yes, 59 miles from the intersection of I-69 and I-465, about 14 miles from Exit 45 on I-69.

The reamer would be ideal, I have a 17mm drill that will fit a 1/2" drill chuck, but I don't have a reamer (wish I did though).

I have a GPz750 aluminum swing arm, and the Suzuki idea won't work as the GPz750 also has a ball bearing on one side.

I reckon it could still work with the GPz750 arm, the ball bearing on the GPz arm is a 6203 (17x40x0.6x12) but they also do a 6203-16 , which is all the same dimensions except it has a 16mm bore, which would still fit the kz spindle.

That involves spending money to prevent something happening that can't happen anyway.

The GPz750 swing arm will not fit between the frame if it is cocked, it has to be perfectly straight or it won't go in. My swing arm is held in place by a 16mm bolt (stock KZ750E) right now (so I could make the spacers to center the wheel, check sprocket offset, etc), and the only play is forward and aft.

We've already drilled one frame (a KZ650) for a 17mm pivot bolt, and it worked well with one person monitoring vertical alignment while the other monitored horizontal, so we'll probably do it again.

I already made a boring bar that starts out at 16 mm, then just past the cutting bit enlarges to 17mm, so it would stay centered in the factory holes, but I forgot that there is clearance between the bolt and the sides of the hole. The original bolt is 16mm, but the hole is a little larger to allow for fit (maybe .1mm).

Since we were successful at drilling the first time, I figure that with due care we will be successful again so I'm not going to bother making another one. Things get easier with practice

If the holes are not straight in line with each other, the bolt is not going to go in anyway, so you'll know immediately that you messed up. I know this because I drilled a junk frame first by myself

You're right, I'm probably getting unnecessarily concerned.

Its as a result of training, I'm an aerospace engineer and tend to try to apply the tolerances we apply at work, in everything!

This is probably why its taking me so long to build a new workshop!! Too much thinking and worrying and not enough doing!

I'm currently having a smaller inner race fabbed up (old 17mm was beat), and using a 16mm corss bolt from the original, a having them shave 2mm off eachside of the arme to accommodat custom caps and wham-0, under $50. Not including flippng the shock mounts of course.