KZ1000 Swingarm

1)Is there any benefit from going from a 1977 KZ1000A1 swingarm with one set of needle bearings to a 1978KZ/LTD1000 swingarm with 2 sets of needle bearings. 2) Also is there any difference in the KZ vs. LTD swingarm other than placement for the chain guard tabs. 3) How much improvment is realized in converting to a GS1100 aluminum swingarm set up. I have read in these posts that the GS1100 arm is about 1.5 to 1.75 inches longer than the stock KZ arm do you have to extend the rear fender out by this distance to avoid the tire rubbing the fender. I notice that Red Line Cycle extends their fenders when they install a 2 inch over arm. Thanks for any thoughts, answers or opinons on these Questions. Ed

The GS arm is a lot stronger than the KZ arm being that it is boxed and aluminum. I never did get around to putting mine on so I'm not sure about the rear fender. Most people are taking off the rear fender anyways.

Oldwolf wrote:

1)Is there any benefit from going from a 1977 KZ1000A1 swingarm with one set of needle bearings to a 1978KZ/LTD1000 swingarm with 2 sets of needle bearings. 2) Also is there any difference in the KZ vs. LTD swingarm other than placement for the chain guard tabs. 3) How much improvment is realized in converting to a GS1100 aluminum swingarm set up. I have read in these posts that the GS1100 arm is about 1.5 to 1.75 inches longer than the stock KZ arm do you have to extend the rear fender out by this distance to avoid the tire rubbing the fender. I notice that Red Line Cycle extends their fenders when they install a 2 inch over arm. Thanks for any thoughts, answers or opinons on these Questions. Ed

Initially, I'd say that 4 bearings are better than two. But, If you look around at newer designs (my '02 Warrior for example) its heavier, made more power and torque, yet it used one bearing on each side and had the centre bushing, just as the '77 kz1000 does.

The end result is, if your parts are in spec, I'd say you'd be hard pressed to tell the diff....

Sam

You should be able to move the tire back 2" without it rubbing. I have seen it done before. Looks a bit different because the tire is closer to the fender though. Lots of guys take the fender off but others make a plate and drill holes to move the fender mount 2" farther back. Moves the taillight that distance back. This keeps the stock look and unless you are up on these bikes,you can't tell it's been done. Where the mount that goes over the frame under the tail piece bolts to the fender(rubber-mounted), use the plate to bolt to the mount and bolt the fender 2" back in the new holes you drill.