New Front MC

Okay, Guys, I'm starting my search for a new front brake setup. I've decided to give up on my original system - never was able to firm it up - plus I need a new M/C anyway due to the new superbike handlebar causes that dramatic downward slant of the M/C, the top brake line is way too long, and the original lines are too soft now (changing to steel braided).

So, I've been reading up on old posts dealing with this issue, and came across the discussion on moving to the newer 14mm M/C, which certainly appealed to me. The question I have is: Would I need new calipers to accomodate the new size lines? I was planning on sending out my old calipers for powder coating with the frame, but obviously won't if I need to upgrade them as well.

Appreciate any help.

Are you talking about size of you lines as in I.D.? If so the size of your lines won't change. I used a ZX6D master cylinder with dual stock caliper for a couple years and never had a problem with them.

I say just grab a newer MC you like and has the outlet at the right spot (either on the end or out the front) and mount it. Hook up your S/S lines to your newly powder coated calipers, bleed, and enjoy.

Later, Doug

I have superbike bars on mine and bought a brand new aftermarket MC off of a guy on eBay. It works great and only was $49.95 plus shipping. It will work with the original size lines but like Doug says, get some SS lines!

I bought Hel lines with a black outercoat to match the look of the bike better.

I'll try to get some photos up of the set up this weekend hopefully. I did repaint the MC balck as they come in sort of a platinum color.

Oh and speed bleeders might be something else you will want on your wish list too.

Just a thought, but while you´re going for a new mc try to get one that has a built-in brake light switch, preferably a mechanical one - that way you can eliminate the stock brake light switch sitting in the splitter, they´re notorious for needing too much pressure before turning on the stop light.

Thanks, guys, I appreciate the advice and insight! I'm looking at a Shindy m/c, but not sure yet if it will work. Also, OnkelB, that is one of my concerns about the built-in brake light switch - I'm already having problems with my current m/c switch, and the one on my 1981 GS650 has definitely died due to old age.

My "optimal" is to find a new unit that has a round reservoir, brakeline take-off in front that can accomodate two seperate lines (thus eliminating the splitter), handles dual discs, has a built-in light switch, is 14mm or 5/8", and fits 7/8" handle bar.:S

I think I'll be looking for awhile:lol:

Just to clarify, when I say "a mechanical switch" I mean a switch that reacts to brake lever movement rather than brake fluid pressure, most of the mechanical ones can be adjusted so the the brake light comes on with just a slight pull of the lever.

As for accomodating dual lines/eliminating the splitter you can get double length banjo bolts like the one below, they have two sets of holes so they can feed two sets of brake lines - just remember to use an extra washer between the banjos.




Post edited by: OnkelB, at: 2007/10/31 13:44

I understand, OnkelB, and I appreciate the follow-up clarification. Actually, I wasn't aware that some switches were activated by fluid pressure. I much prefer the "mechanical" ones that are activated by lever movement, so I'll make sure the m/c assembly I select has that.

Thanks for the explanation on banjo bolts - again, I didn't realize that it is a bolt solution rather than m/c. Sounds like I'll be able to accomodate my preferences:)

I've got the bike stripped down now, short of removing engine. Everything categorized and labeled, photographed, harness leads tagged, etc. Next I send frame and select components out for powder coating, and I begin work on the wiring harness - laying it out on peg board, removing all wrapping tape, replacing all connectors (and wiring where needed), soldering wires where there really isn't a need for connectors, etc.

Then engine goes out for top-end and tranny work and then soda-blasting. Over the winter I will replace reg/rec, IC Ignitor, brake systems, etc. Wheels will be re-laced with chrome spokes, and forks rebuilt. Then final assembly in time for springB)