Steering damper for 1982 Gpz1100

What kind of 'inexpensive' steering damper will fit on a 1982 Gpz1100? H1? H2? I just replaced my steering bearings and the new bearings are a bit 'swishy', like it was on another bike I have. I put an H1 steering damper on that bike and the problem cleared right up.

Post edited by: howard95132, at: 2007/10/29 02:56

I am not aware of any inexpensive aftermarket steering dampners that are available for the 1100B models...watch eBay for something to pop up..if you do find a source, let me know 'cause I'm in the market too:)

What type of steering bearings did you replace the originals with? Did you use a good grease when doing so? Could be your new bearings are actually working and not binding like the old ones were.


I see you're from San Jose Area, howard95132.

I used All Balls. I also put them on a different bike and yes, they appear to be smoother than stock. I'm going to ride it on the side streets a bit and then re-torque the steering stem as even though I tapped the races in, it's possible that they didn't fully seat.

You could put some miles on it and check them. As for a steering dampner you could get one from schnitzracing. com for an older bike. They also sell fork clamps and you might be able to get one that will fit on the frame so you won't have to weld a bracket on.

Thanks. Schnitzracing are complete A-holes. They screwed up my order twice and blamed me even when I talked to their incompetent tech department to confirm that I was ordering the correct part. I will never, ever order anything from those bastards again. I can get an H1 steering damper (new) for $49 + shipping but the 38mm fork clamp is $35 + shipping. Bummer, but I'll probably do it as a damper will make the bike much more stable. I did take it for a ride and then re-torque the steering stem. It's fine at higher speeds (went 121 for a second to check it, but the 'Kawi-wobble' used to occur at 135), but for safety sake, I think I should get the damper, and the correct way is to get a fork clamp as well.

I have a H1/H2 damper on my ELR(GPZ) and like you say you will need a fork clamp (or if you can get in there, drill and tap the lower triple to accept a shoulder bolt or a stud). The body can be fastened to the right reflector mount. I think the old Kawi damper looks very cool and "old school" in my opinion.

Oh by the way Howard. Where can I get a new H1-H2 damper for $49 plus shipping ?

That’s exactly how I plan to do it. I did it the same way on my RD350. I would never drill a hole in the triple clamp. The correct way is to use a fork clamp for a steering damper. I did the measurements yesterday and it does look like there is enough clearance for the damper. Here's where you can get the damper for the bet price I've found:
www.mikesxs.net/mikesxs-suspension.php?category_id=6.3
Part #28-4008. They also have the fork clamp for $20, but only go up to 36mm and I need 38mm.

Well I 'bit the bullet' and ordered the damper & fork clamp today. Good price on the damper (Mikesxs) and not as good on the clamp (Pro Flo), but that's the one I wanted and it should work out fine. As I mentioned, I have the same setup on an RD350 so I was able to take some measurements before I ordered the parts. The back of the damper might come close to the head of the engine, but it should work out fine.

If u still have a speed woble u should check your swingarm bushings or bearings.Also make shure the rear wheel bolts are exactly the same distance from the swingarm axle on each side. These as well as the steering head bearings are common causes of speed woble. Hope this is helpfull.

Thanks. I’m aware of that as well. I replaced the swing arm bushings with bronze ones in my RD as well. It didn’t make as big a difference as the steering stem bearings, and while I’m glad I did, I had a heck of a time pounding those suckers in so I hope to not have to do it on the Gpz. I got it up to 121 mph briefly and it felt stable, but I’m sure it will be even better once I put the steering damper in.