Torque wrench

BSKZ650 wrote:

if you get a click type, make sure you set it at zero when you store it, by doing this you should not have any calibration issues

Why would resetting matter? When you set it, all you are doing is moving the fulcrum. Am I missing something?

Hey Mcdroid,

You're right about the bar-and-scale type, but the dial-click type (wish I new the real name) does have some internal springs that do better if they are unloaded when not in use.

Bluemeanie- hope you notice that we've been upping our posting rates :woohoo: :woohoo:

Mcdroid wrote:

BSKZ650 wrote:

if you get a click type, make sure you set it at zero when you store it, by doing this you should not have any calibration issues

Why would resetting matter? When you set it, all you are doing is moving the fulcrum. Am I missing something?

The click type has a spring, and leaving the spring under compression for a long time may cause it to take a set, loose tension, etc. Instruction that come with the torque wrench tell you to zero it out when not in use.

Don't know if it's actually critical or not, maybe "not in use" means if you use it once a year (instead of daily)?

Link14 wrote:

but the dial-click type (wish I new the real name)

they're called 'toggle' type torque wrenches. I try to relax the spring in mine after every use, definatly don't leave it set over night. If left compressed any spring will begin to take a set or wear out, thus affecting the accuracy.

Link14 wrote:

Hey Mcdroid,

You're right about the bar-and-scale type, but the dial-click type (wish I new the real name) does have some internal springs that do better if they are unloaded when not in use.

Bluemeanie- hope you notice that we've been upping our posting rates :woohoo: :woohoo:

Thanks!

Link14 wrote:

Hey Mcdroid,

You're right about the bar-and-scale type, but the dial-click type (wish I new the real name) does have some internal springs that do better if they are unloaded when not in use.

Bluemeanie- hope you notice that we've been upping our posting rates :woohoo: :woohoo:

Thanks!

KZCSI,Patton, steell, kbeefy,BSKZ650,
Thanx a lot, gentlemen:)

Post edited by: McGregor, at: 2007/10/17 19:48

Post edited by: McGregor, at: 2007/10/17 19:49

steell wrote:

Mcdroid wrote:

BSKZ650 wrote:

if you get a click type, make sure you set it at zero when you store it, by doing this you should not have any calibration issues

Why would resetting matter? When you set it, all you are doing is moving the fulcrum. Am I missing something?

The click type has a spring, and leaving the spring under compression for a long time may cause it to take a set, loose tension, etc. Instruction that come with the torque wrench tell you to zero it out when not in use.

Don't know if it's actually critical or not, maybe "not in use" means if you use it once a year (instead of daily)?

Woops I better dig mine out and set it at 0. I got it new last x-mas and used it a few times rebuilding the kids motor. It's a Craftsman and I like it.

Patton wrote:

Bluemeanie wrote:

What are our choices??? :huh:

The original genuine Black Forest brand torque wrench has no equal, being scientifically calibrated to the precise German Virgin Standard, which in most applications should be set to Guttentite (as opposed to the more commonly recognized method of turn it until it strips, then back off 1/2 turn).

Hope this helps.

He said Vrigin. :laugh: