Torque wrench

Thinkin' about buying torque wrench from SNAP ON, to work on my present cycle and, maybe;), on future ones ( still dreaming about Triumph ).
But which one will work better on metric machines ?
Any advise will be greatly appreciated

What are our choices??? :huh:

Metric doesn't matter, just convert to inch/foot pounds.

It doesn't have to be a Snap-On torque wrench (and I pay Snap-On every week), any decent torque wrenches (1/4", 3/8", and 1/2") will work, I calibrate them before I use them anyway.

I calibrate them before I use them anyway.

Is it hard to do this ?
The main reason why I think about SNAP ON's wrench, because it's already calibrated, so I don't need to recalibrate it in a future

Post edited by: McGregor, at: 2007/10/16 21:55

650ed responded in a doubled thread:

"I have 2 different ones (but not Snap-on, although they make great tools). One is small, has a 3/8" drive, and is calibrated from 0 - 200 "inch pounds." I use this for most screws, nuts, and bolts as it is more accurate than trying to guess that fine a measure on a large scale. The other is a larger, 1/2" drive and is calibrated form 0 -150 "foot pounds." Perfect for larger nuts & bolts (even lug nuts on my cars). Both are the "bar and pointer" type rather than the micrometer type. The advantage is that they cannot go out of calibration - the bar bends at a given rate (moving the rule with it) and the pointer remains straight. No muss, no fuss. Ed"

Bluemeanie wrote:

What are our choices??? :huh:

The original genuine Black Forest brand torque wrench has no equal, being scientifically calibrated to the precise German Virgin Standard, which in most applications should be set to Guttentite (as opposed to the more commonly recognized method of turn it until it strips, then back off 1/2 turn).

Hope this helps.

Every torque wrench requires calibration, that's why Snap-On sells the service ($30 I think).

But it's so incredibly easy to do it I have never paid to have it done.

Just use a known accurate weight (use some imagination here), clamp the square socket drive end in a vise with the handle level with the floor, set the torque wrench the same as the weight you are using, hang the weight 12" from the center of the square drive, and the wrench should click (or deflect that much if using a beam type). 100 lbs applied 1 foot from the center of the square drive is 100 foot pounds, 50 lbs applied 2 feet from the center is 100 foot lbs.

Or pay $30 and let Snap-On do it for you

My Snap-On dealer is a real nice looking lady, and real good at sucking money out of my wallet, she gets enough of it without my paying for something simple like calibrating my torque wrench

theres cheaper ways of getting a torque wrench than purchasing from the truck, especially if your only gonna use it infrequently. I have a MAC 1/2" I got from ebay, it looks like it's been drug behind a truck but is always within 1 ft/lb, better than my matco or my craftsman wrenches that I bought new. All wrenches are 'calibrated' from the factory but it's nice to see what the deviation is, theres always some. Make sure you relax the spring (if it's a toggle type) between uses and it will last a long time w/o recalibrating. I've had to calibrate mine every year for the past 8 years, they're all still well below 10% deviation.

As far as metric or standard, all mine have both scales, though they use a few different ones for metric. It's easy enough to find a conversion if necessary.

I use my automotive tools A-LOT and I just really love my Snap On torque wrenches (really all of my Snap On brand tools) ... they are simply the best I've ever used !!! Much much better than my Craftsman stuff .... which I also use A-LOT !!!

My latest Snap On tool ... tank cover for my KZ

thats a sexy cover....


OK, heres my take....

If it's your job or you've got the money to blow buy name brand (tool truck stuff). If your a weekend warrior you'll be more than happy with the standard stuff, craftsman etc. only about 5-10% of the time does the nicer stuff make a difference.

Thanks ... and you're right .... I make my living as a machinest / mechanic ... so I depend on my tools daily.

if you get a click type, make sure you set it at zero when you store it, by doing this you should not have any calibration issues