Morris mag rotor bolts

Well I got my early Morris wheel and brake rotor.
I got the allen head counter sunk bolts that mount the rotor to the rim out of my donor rim. But when I went to take my wheel "plate" ( Morris did some strange things )off the non-rotor side..I can't get them out !:blink: I have snapped FIVE Allen brand, 3/16" Allen head sockets off, twisted my Snap-on one to the point I stopped BEFORE I broke it too. And in general gotten no place with this:angry:
I thought about heating it up to expand the aluminum, ( and it IS aluminum NOT magnesium ) but am afraid to ruin it I even tried heating it on one one bolt areas with my map gas. I didn't go too long as I'm worried I'll use too much heat for too long .I figure that's just my luck to ruin it.
I'm guessing they used red Loctite on them thirty some years ago, as I did find traces of what looked like it on some of the threads of the ones I did get out.
Any advice guys?? I'm about ready to take it to a machine shop.
Thanks in advance, Pat
PS. Of course Redline Cycle NOW has a complete Morris dual disc setup on ebay:blink: Oh well.. A bird in the hand is better than one overhead :whistle:

Post edited by: patmann, at: 2007/07/05 16:00

I've found that sometimes tightening them about 1/8 ~ 1/4 turn to break the loctite loose before trying to remove them will help.
Then alternating between 1/2 ~ 3/4 turns loosening to 1/4 ~ 1/2 turns tightening to finally remove them.

there not 3/16.......but you should try to heat them a bit also.

Use an air or electric impact driver with impact allen sockets made for tough jobs. I got a Dewalt 1/2" 18v battery electric rechargable impact tool last year that does the job nicely with good quality impact sockets.

arai60 wrote:

there not 3/16.......but you should try to heat them a bit also.

Want to bet??? The ALLEN HEAD IS 3/16" .
It is NOT metric either. The bolts are 5/16" x 18 WITH a 3/16" counter sunk ALLEN HEAD. This is "OLD SCHOOL".
I've had two REAL mechanics even look at it. The dang "plate" that is in place of the rotor is what is stopping the heat transfer to the wheel, or so one of them says.

I'll try the tightening then trick. I knew that, but forgot it in my excitment of "almost there" on the dual disc Morris.
At least I got a lifetime warrenty on the Allen brand sockets. And I've used it too;) But the store is running out of them:whistle: And the Snap-on guy is hard to flag down at my house.
Then there is this option..
cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=220127964030&rd=1,1
Well CRAP!!! That isn't even an option now. I was just getting ready to bid and saw it ended early. Now back to my wheel:)

Post edited by: patmann, at: 2007/07/06 16:00

In case anyone ever has the same problem.. my buddy who is a Ski-doo mechanic taught me something. Take a FLAT punch or round bar stock almost the same size as the bolt, put it on top of the counter sunk bolts head. Then SMACK it HARD with a hammer. Do it a couple of times and the bolt comes out !!! He said something about counter sunk bolts and cohesion?? I don't have to understand it, and I don't:dry: I still don't think it should work, but it did on all six bolts. And in less than four minutes we had them out.
I then chased them with a tap to clean the old Loc-tite out.
I just don't get it.. I figure it should bugger up the threads, but it didn't .
Pat