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Handlebar Swapping
- bemoore
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23 Mar 2007 04:09 #122776
by bemoore
77 KZ650C1 w/Kerker 4-1
Handlebar Swapping was created by bemoore
I never knew swapping handlebars would be such a pain. I've swapped them on dirt bikes and bicycles, so I thought I had a clue. Latest problem: Getting out the wires routed through the bars. How do you get these out? I have the bars (with controls still attached) off the bike and in a vise, so I can get access to any part of the bars and from any angle. I've tried spraying WD-40 on both ends and I've been able to get the wires to move a little, but not enough to be removed. Also, how would I get the wires back in? Fishing them through with a string or wire was the first thing that came to mind, but I don't think it would work with all the connectors on the end. What am I missing here?
Thanks.
Thanks.
77 KZ650C1 w/Kerker 4-1
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- RetroRiceRocketRider
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- ...bring in the machine that goes PING!
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23 Mar 2007 05:38 #122788
by RetroRiceRocketRider
Replied by RetroRiceRocketRider on topic Handlebar Swapping
WD-40 and a LOT of patience is what I used when I removed the wires from my OEM bars.
Lube the wire casing at the hole in the center of the h-bars and push the wires (do one side at a time, it's easier) in from there until they stop moving - usually about 1/2"~1" at a time.
Then pull the wires from the outer end until you take up the slack you created by pushing them from the center.
Repeat until you've got them completely out, be careful to not damage the wires on the edge of the hole.
Once you've removed one side, the other side will have more room and be slightly easier to remove.
If you're replacing your h-bars with non-OEM ones (which won't have the holes to route the wires inside of the bars), you will need to notch the switch housings so as not to pinch the wires against the bars.
Also be sure not to push the housings against the clutch perch and master cylinder when you mount them, as it WILL eventually gouge through the wire insulation and cause a short - I had to deal with this issue already, and it sucks! :pinch:
If you're going to install another set of OEM bars and run the wires back through the h-bar holes, using "fish-tape" and WD-40 is probably going to be your best bet.
Just take your time and be careful not to damage the wires and you should do fine.
Lube the wire casing at the hole in the center of the h-bars and push the wires (do one side at a time, it's easier) in from there until they stop moving - usually about 1/2"~1" at a time.
Then pull the wires from the outer end until you take up the slack you created by pushing them from the center.
Repeat until you've got them completely out, be careful to not damage the wires on the edge of the hole.
Once you've removed one side, the other side will have more room and be slightly easier to remove.
If you're replacing your h-bars with non-OEM ones (which won't have the holes to route the wires inside of the bars), you will need to notch the switch housings so as not to pinch the wires against the bars.
Also be sure not to push the housings against the clutch perch and master cylinder when you mount them, as it WILL eventually gouge through the wire insulation and cause a short - I had to deal with this issue already, and it sucks! :pinch:
If you're going to install another set of OEM bars and run the wires back through the h-bar holes, using "fish-tape" and WD-40 is probably going to be your best bet.
Just take your time and be careful not to damage the wires and you should do fine.
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- H1Vindicator
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23 Mar 2007 07:42 - 20 Feb 2013 18:34 #122813
by H1Vindicator
Replied by H1Vindicator on topic ----
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Last edit: 20 Feb 2013 18:34 by H1Vindicator.
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