keywords 650 rear axle bearing replacement

Axle Bearing aggravation.

Once I got my chain reunited with my bike and everything tightened back up, I pushed the rear wheel sideways at the rear as an afterthought. What a suprise I received when I felt it rock sideways about a quarter of an inch! I tested this a second time with the exact same results to verify what had astounded me. I think to myself that this is why the bike has seemed a little squirrely during partial throttle loading while cornering left. Unsure of what I have found, I buzz over to one of my mentors for his opinion. He confirms the suspicion that it is time to replace the rear axle bearings, The hypothesis is at least one bearing is powdering internally.

Removing the wheel is pretty ho-hum as usual. The disk rotor comes off without incident, even though it looks like it didn't need to, as confirmed by the manual, which I have but don't think I need to consult. In my zeal to dismantle this appendage to ascertain damage, I figure, it is only four additional bolts, so off it comes. Who needs a freekin manual to take off obvious bolts anyway? Now, I have a wheel with two pressed in sealed bearings that mock me in their refusal to come out peacefully. Circlip's out, super-ober-goober-luber applied, whakity hammer smacks, still no budge. Hmmm, maybe I better look at the manual. Consulting factory supplement, this is where I find the BFH (24 oz) is not going to work as initially planned or previously applied. Now I have to figure out how to access "distance collar" in order to drive out the bearings from the inside. No special tool shown. "Use suitable tool." Great help here. . . It's apart now.


The screwdriver will never be the same. . .


Closer inspection reveals that suspicions are correct about a bad bearing. The one on the right has lots of rattle and rust for guts. It was the bearing on the rotor side of the wheel.



During inpection, I find the seal has failed, permitting the entrance of water at some point during a 29-year vehicle history. That's it next to the newly installed bearing. I almost overlooked it.


The new seal came in the box pictured. I didn't get it, or the bearings at the dealer. I got them at Applied Industrial Technologies, link here . As I have indicated before, they will match bearings and seals, as long as they do not have an idea the parts are for a motorcycle. Can you resist bragging about your project long enough to acquire the parts for it at a cost below what the dealer charges? In this case, silence IS golden, it can save you 15% over dealer, and the parts are likely on the shelf, not on an island, far, far away.





In getting ready to install the now repaired and freshly greased "distance collar,"


it occurs to me that the factory diagram is worthless, as the picture does not match my reality. There are two ways to install this thing, and a 50% chance of error.

I look at this side



and this side


and finally decide that this orientation



is correct for the application. With the bearing and circlip installed on the rotor side, the "distance collar" spaces the second bearing at installation depth. Without it, the bearing could be installed too deeply, so remember to install this part before installing the second bearing. Don't want parts left over with this little project. You REALLY don't want to have to remove a brand new bearing because you forgot to istall this detail.

I needed a larger socket than anything I had around, in oder to seat the new bearings. For those that do not know, the only place safe to drive a roller bearing is on the outer race. These bearings are set into a receiver slightly larger than 34mm, so logically, a 34mm socket will do the job nicely. I got a loaner set of CV axle sockets from my friendly Advance Auto Parts supplier, even though they didn't supply me with any parts for this project. They didn't HAVE any parts for this project. It's a loaner tool program; they don't require you to actually BUY anything. Beats having to purchase a socket which may never be needed again, right? The set looks like this



Grease the edge of the bearings before you drive them in. It takes a pretty good amount of tappity-whack with a 14 oz hammer to get everything centered and seated.

I did a couple things differently this time around regarding my wheel installation proceedure. I removed the lower shock bolts, and swung the shocks back so that the swingarm was free to lift clear of the mufflers. It made the installation of the axle a LOT easier, since I didn't have to fight the shock springs to get access to the swingarm axle slot.

While I had the shocks disconnected from the swingarm, I was able to test the pivot for play. If it had any, I would have found it, since everything was removed this time around.

With the bike on the factory centerstand while I did all this repair work, the only other thing I did differently was to use a a block of wood to raise the tire and wheel 2 or so inches, high enough to clear the muffler interference. I was able to easily pivot the swingarm to match the holes for the axle, instead of trying to lift the tire while trying to stab through a number of uncooperative openings. There are probably other methods to accomplish what I did, maybe some of them are better. Hope some of this works for you.

Wow, Dude :woohoo:
GOOD write up! :woohoo: :woohoo:

You can use the OLD bearings to drive in the new bearings if you don't have the right size socket/driver.
I did mine last Winter. Not as difficult as I though it'd be.

Quick followup. . .

I thought about using an old bearing for driving in the new, but when I saw how far in these characters had to go, I thought the old bearing might get stuck following in the new unit. How did you prevent that from happening to you?



Someone else told me to use a cut down two x four. I didn't want to deal with splinter risks.

That's a good question. I can't recall at the moment. I don't remember mine being as deep either. :S

KaZooCruiser wrote:

The new seal came in the box pictured. I didn't get it, or the bearings at the dealer. I got them at Applied Industrial Technologies, link here .

Reviving an old thread with a question.

KaZoo, do you recall how much they charged you at Applied for those bearings?

I called my local branch office and they quoted me $18+ each for the bearings. :blink:

And I never mentioned it was for a motorcycle.

I was hoping to save some time by picking them up locally, but jeez. I didn't feel like changing my name to Ben Dover.

I promptly hung up the phone and ordered a complete kit from Z1E for $28 that includes all three bearings AND the seals.

$18 each? What are they smoking?

Skyman wrote:

KaZooCruiser wrote:

The new seal came in the box pictured. I didn't get it, or the bearings at the dealer. I got them at Applied Industrial Technologies, link here .

Reviving an old thread with a question.

KaZoo, do you recall how much they charged you at Applied for those bearings?

I called my local branch office and they quoted me $18+ each for the bearings. :blink:

And I never mentioned it was for a motorcycle.

I was hoping to save some time by picking them up locally, but jeez. I didn't feel like changing my name to Ben Dover.

I promptly hung up the phone and ordered a complete kit from Z1E for $28 that includes all three bearings AND the seals.

$18 each? What are they smoking?

Hi Skyman, glad to see you read through the post to see if it might help you. Your criticism and "Bendover" comment kind of mars the intent of its being generated.

I don't recall what I paid for what I got; I know I didn't have to wait any length of time to acquire the parts I needed to fix the problem I had.

I'm glad that Jeff and Z1 had the parts you needed, and that you had the time to wait for the parts to arrive. How much was shipping or was that included with the $28.00 you indicated you paid?

If I had gotten an axle kit from Z1, it would have cost a minimum of $6.00 and as much as $35.40 for expedited shipping. So in my case, there wouldn't have been much of a savings, ultimately, as I didn't need everything in the kit they offer.

With all due respect, I went to Z1 and looked for the kit for my bike. The two listings I found didn't show my particular application, a 1978 KZ650SR-D1A, as part of the selection matrix. They show two kits for a KZ650, and it wasn't clear to me which one is correct. I suppose i could have gone to www.goallballs.com and researched application but that would have taken time I didn't want to invest.

www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=2795

Wheel Bearing - Seal Kit Rear - Kawasaki KZ550 KZ650
AB25-1349

All Balls
6305-2RS 6303-2RS 30-6204

Drive Flange 6305-2RS Drive Flange Seal 30-6204 Rear Right/Left Bearing 6303-2RS

$23.95

---

www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=3235

Wheel Bearing - Seal Kit Rear - Kawasaki KZ550 KZ650 KZ700 KZ750 ZX900
AB25-1284

All Balls
6206-2RS 6303-2RS 30-6205 30-4704

Rear Right Bearing 6303-2RS Rear Right Seal 30-4704 Drive Flange 6206-2RS Drive Flange Seal

30-6205

Fits Kawasaki KZ550c/d 1980-83 KZ650E1 1980 KZ650H 1981-83 KZ700 1984 KZ750E/H/K1/L/M/R1

1980-84 ZX750A/E 1983-85 ZX900 1984-86

$27.25

---

While putting this response together, I went to www.goallballs.com , did the research,
and apparently the kit I need is 25-1282, so I don't think what I found on Z1's site would have worked in any case.

If this is the kit you got, I can see in the application spectrum that a 1977-1980 KZ1000 "B" is listed. It takes time to locate correct applicability.

www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=2788

Wheel Bearing - Seal Kit Rear - Kawasaki KZ750 KZ1000
AB25-1286

All Balls
6304-2RS 30-5210 6206-2RS 30-6205

Rear Wheel Bearing 6304-2RS Right Seal 30-5210 Drive Flange 6206-2RS Seal 30-6205

Fits Kawasaki 1977 - 80 KZ1000, A, B, G1, Z1R 1978 - 81 KZ1000C 1976 - 79 KZ750B

$28.80

---

This is another listing I found

www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=2787

Wheel Bearing - Seal Kit Rear - Kawasaki KZ1000 ZX1000 ZX1100 ZR1100
AB25-1285

All Balls
6304-2RS 30-5202 6206-2RS 30-6205 -

Rear Wheel Bearing 6304-2RS Right Seal 30-5202 Drive Fange 6206-2RS Seal 30-6205 1981 - 82

KZ1000J, K, M, R1 1981 - 05 KZ1000P 1981 - 82 KZ1100B 1992 - 95 ZR1100 1999 - 00 ZR1100 ZRX

1986 - 87 ZX1000 Ninja 1988 - 90 ZX1000 Ninja ZX10 1990 - 93 ZX1100 C Ninja ZX11 1983 - 84

ZX1100 GPZ 1993 - 01 ZX1100D Ninja ZX11 1995 - 96 ZX1100E GPZ 1977 - 80

$28.80

---

Maybe you have time and money to make long distance calls to verify product applicability, or time to send e-mail and wait for responses. Jeff and his staff are diligent in taking care of customer needs. Maybe you have time and money to send stuff back if you don't do the research and find out afterwards that the products don't fit correctly afterall.

If I had no concerns about any of that I guess I could have gone to the dealer and paid list. And waited for the slow boat from the land of the rising sun.

To me, it was easier to have broken part in hand, drive three or less miles, walk into a local distributor, and let the local professionals match my parts exactly by dimension, within 15 minutes. That is an intangible value you missed in your zeal for a bargain.

I had my problem axle issues solved, with pictures, and was riding again within six hours.

I might not be a good mechanic or photographer, but I understand the time value of money.

My write up was an attempt to expedite a problem solution common to these restoration projects. I offered Applied. You chose someone else, in this case, Z1.

For what it is worth, I went to the dealer today, and asked about prices for your bike parts. The 6304 bearing alone is $20.49, with a three to five day wait for it. I went to Applied, and was told the 6304-2RS is $16.52, not the 18+ you mention in your post. They had 318 of them in stock, sitting on a shelf, ready for delivery if needed.

Riding is more fun to me than waiting for parts with a broken down assembly, or riding anxiously with a known crucial assembly impaired, while waiting for parts to ship or arrive.

It took me longer to write up the "how-to" which, at the end offered the idea that there are other ways to do what I did. I didn't expect someone to come along and trash it. The dealer is an alternative that some use irrespective of cost or time. If the only place you could have gotten your beaing was the dealer, for $48.00, would that $48.00 have been an issue? If Applied hadn't listed your bearing, would you have complained in the forum?

My friends at Cycle-Line just replaced the front caliper on a 1973 Z1 they are restoring. That piece cost them $300.00. It was brand new. It took them weeks to find it.

Maybe in 30 years, or in 45,000 miles, if and when I have to do this job over again, I will go to Z1 and pay what it costs for the parts (and shipping) to them, or maybe I will go to J&R Cycles, a distance of 18 miles from my house, and pay only $6.00 per bearing with him, or maybe I will go back to Applied, since they are the closest to me, and pay for the convenience of expertise close at hand. Or maybe I will have to get the part at the only place it's available. And pay what they offer it to me at, because it is made out of unobtanium otherwise.

I am pretty sure I won't criticize the vendor's price structure. I will be happy to have part to fix problem.

The only thing I know I will do differently in this case will be to chill the bearings before installing them, to shrink them down a little before installation. Drop-in, rather than tappity-whack with a 14 oz hammer. That was a great tip offered by Sandy here in the forum, and it deserves recognition and inclusion in this thread.

Unlike your commentary. Your criticism of Applied is unwarranted, unhelpful, and undeserved. It's also called business slander, but in this case, because it is written, is libelous. They serviced my needs in a professional manner. You cannot put a price tag on that kind of value.

The last time I utilized them I got a distributor seal off the shelf for my 1987 Mazda truck for $4.00, instead of the $15.00 the dealer wanted. Which incidentally would have had to be ordered.

It's nice to know there are alternatives out there.

JC Whitney is a good example of a way to do E-commerce. Sometimes they can save you some money. But you have time issues in waiting, and shipping costs to factor in.

I also found a couple sites on the web dealing with SKF bearings and the seal I got.

www.vxb.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc ?
Search For The Following Word(s): 6303

6303-2RS Bearing 17x47x14 Sealed
Code: Kit314
Price: $4.95

www.ebatmus.com/search.epl?Query=6303+2rsjem $14.04 each

www.ebatmus.com/search.epl?Query=9748
$1.99 each

I hope you go back and edit your post. If you don't, I hope the mods do.

If I wanted free eggs, I could grow chickens. Of course, then I would have to deal with chicken crap.

This is an older thread, but I'd like to revive it with a concern. I replaced the front bearings in my '81 KZ650 CSR this afternoon (after pounding forever on the old bearings with a drift, I ordered the Pit Posse bearing puller kit shown in this thread for the next time). I had new bearings on hand that I got from Z1 (time was not of the essence since riding here in Wisconsin is still months off) and compared them to the old ones. The diameter and width were the same. I froze the new bearings for an hour or so, but they still took a little pounding with a socket to get them in.

Now for the concern. The new bearings were spinning freely before I put them in the hub. But, now they seem bound up once they are in. The wheel spins on the axel, but I'm not sure that the bearings are spinning. Is it possible that I drove them in too deeply?

I put everything back together but am paranoid that I am going to weld things together come Spring if the bearings aren't turning. Any insight would be appreciated.

I ordered the bearing puller kit, and am getting ready to order another set of bearings, as I'm thinking that I will need to pull the bearings I just put back in out and replace them again. How deep should these be tapped in? I really thing that was the issue, as I seated them pretty firmly.

Post edited by: MSGAmling, at: 2008/01/26 23:47