bottom of fork studs, replace?

I would really feel safer if I could get new studs in the bottom of my outer fork tubes. The studs look exactly the same as the exhaust port studs. Can the fork tube studs be replaced? I hate to make 'em worse if they are difficult to remove, and then not being able to remove them. I'm sure whole new outer fork tubes are either unavailable or wicked pricey. Any tips?

they screw right out with a pair of vise grips.z1-kz1000 use same studs;)

Thanks, Wireman. I'm on it.

kawasaki.com shows part number 92004-1009 STUD,8X35

Have not done this, but would presume heat might help loosen and remove the old stud

The FSMs for KZ900 and KZ1000 do not call for a thread locking agent when installing the stud on those models. Hope another member will submit a definite recommendation as to the KZ750.

Clean hole threads and new stud with brake clean or something similar and let dry, apply your favorite loctite and install stud. I would guess that your self locking nuts that hold on the end caps are not in too good shape also, I would replace these also..
You definitly would not want these studs or nuts getting loose on your bike....

My 2 cents

1045

Doh! Well, maybe a hela-coil could fix. I've found a parts bike, total basket case with an extra set of forks, fortunately. I have had this similar problem before removing steel bolts from alluminum taps. It seems the steel and alluminum form some kind of corrosion bond. Alluminum is very stiff and allows the steel to be more maleable when twisting, or something. I've tried worriying the parts for weeks with penatrating oil and still the steel breaks off. The other time it was on the right hand mirror stud in the master cylinder housing. Heat did not seem to help. The alluminum was oxidized around the steel. Any better approaches for next time?

can you drill a pilot hole and use an ez out on it?

More heat might possibly have helped. Heat loosens any existing locking agent and expands the aluminum far more than the steel(so that the aluminum loosens its grip on the stud).

If drilling pilot hole for ez out, suggest lots of heat before beginning the reverse twisting. But don't melt the aluminum. Heat gun might be enough, but would suggest a propane torch (not a welding torch).

Of course, the reverse twisting must be done while the parts are still hot.

mountain wrote:

Doh! Well, maybe a hela-coil could fix. I've found a parts bike, total basket case with an extra set of forks, fortunately. I have had this similar problem before removing steel bolts from alluminum taps. It seems the steel and alluminum form some kind of corrosion bond.

I hate that for you. It's an electrolytic bond. You can helicoil it, but if you get your drill centered when you start, you might be able to drill out enough of the original stud so that you don't have to do anything but tap out the what is left after drilling to clean it up.

I know ez-outs seem like a good idea, but with the stud frozen as it is. . .if the ez-out breaks, you are going to be really stuck.

Post edited by: KaZooCruiser, at: 2007/02/20 11:54

the best and most expensive is to find a machine shop that has a EDM machine, they can burn out the stud and chase the threads, no need for a heli coil

Thanks, everyone. Encouragement helps. Yah, electrolytic bond. Hmmm. When this happened to me recently on the mirror stud in the master cylinder body, the mirror stem broke off with a little "outie", I ground the steel stud flat and tried to center and drill, starting real small and increasing bit sizes to wittle away at the steel. As it was not exactly centered, when I got to the "Grey Zone", where the steel meets aluminum, the larger bit grabbed the alluminum violently (one bit size to far!)and snapped off in the alluminum master cylinder body. I was able to get the bit out by fraturing it with a hammer and punch after 30min, (and safety glasses of course!)
There are two types of "easy-outs". One type is straight and obolisk(sp?) looking; the other-spiral reverse type. Any empirical evidence out there on which works more effectively?

Ok, here is what's left of the stud. Drilling it out copromised the threads some.