changing front sprocket: check me!

OK, I'm getting down to the little stuff on the engine before I split the cases to change the cam chain. I'm changing the front sprocket. The rear wheel is off, so I'm planning on needing an air wrench, and, since the chain and spocket are both being replaced, and I haven't painted the engine cases yet, I'm planning on grabbing the chain by (gloved) hand and wrapping it under the engine and pulling it tight. After bending the tabs on the "sprocket stopper washer" (that's what Kaw calls it on their online parts catalog) it should come right off, right?
When putting the new sprocket on, since I'm not supposed to reuse the washer, do I loctite the bolt? The really good stuff, or just the regular stuff? Are new tab washers available? Advice!!

If you are into over-engineering...yes?
Then it would be good to replace the "locking tabs" but I (and prolly others) have been known to recycle the lockers if they are in sound condition and don't develop stress cracks when re-bent.
It seems to me that they are made of a soft metal that will take a couple re-bends.
Could you wrap the old chain around the sprocket and secure it with a clamp or something in order to gain purchase when removing the bolts? Seems like that could work...have a breaker bar handy just in case, but you may not need it.

You're going to need some other help besides a gloved hand to get that sprocket off. I just posted this following item over at the kz400.com forum:

"Want to hear my 'improper use of tools' method? For my 400, I use a 10mm wrench that is closed on one end and open on the other, and I jam it in there. I stick one of the teeth of the open end in the little hole in the frame on the right (or to the rear) of the sprocket, and the closed end over a tooth on the sprocket. It goes over the top of the sprocket for tightening, the bottom for loosening.

You might think I'm crazy but it REALLY works. Mind you, it really gets jammed into the frame and actually gets stuck. I recommend you use a wrench that you don't mind getting damaged. The only reason I use a 10mm is because of the wrench length. I use a 12mm on my 750, and jam it against a different part of the frame.

Try it out. I'm not saying you *should* do it this way, but it works for me..."

...other posters mentioned pieces of wood, and hockey sticks and such jammed into the teeth of the sprocket.

Replacement washers can be had, I think from z1enterprises.com...

Just a thought here....are you sure you need to split the cases to change the cam chain?

I seemed to remember a recent thread that said you can break the master link on the old chain, connect one end of the new and old one and turn the engine over with a 17 mm wrench.

The old chain will pull the new chain around the bottom crankcase gear, up through the top of the motor where you can press the master link on the new chain together. It might be a good idea to use a small piece of wire to ensure the old and new cam chain stay connected. This procedure might save you some of the hassle of yanking the motor and splitting the cases.

On the retaining washer you should be able to reuse the old one. I did without any problems. The retaining washer is fairly malleable and can be flattened out easy enough before putting it back on the the sprocket nut. On my 650 there was a pin that lines up on a hole in the sprocket. I used the blue (medium-strenght Loctite instead of the permanent red Loctite on the nut that holds the sprocket in place.

Cheers-Colin Firth-Ontario Canada
1977Kz650 Custom - 810 Wiseco, new Wired George Mikuni 29 smoothbores with lottsa go-fast goodies tucked away inside. Miss January on the 2007 Kzrider calendar.

THe bike's been sitting with the head and cylinders off for a couple of months in a dusty Kansas garage- I've got all the side covers off for repainting, and I got a complete gasket set... It just seems that since I'm this close, I might as well see what the internals look like, and clean everything good. The cam chain is a HyVo(sp) and doesn't come apart very well.
About the sprocket- I'm going to use an impact wrench on it. You really think I'm going to have to wedge the sprocket?

Cam chaim replacement can be done without splitting the cases. Been there, done that just recently. Remove the oil pan, to better aid with this, and you'll also get a look what's in the oil pan.

You can use anything that will fit in there to "wedge" the sprocket. You will also need a new lock washer tabber thinggy. I think Jeff has them and if not you can bend the "fresh" sides that haven't been used.

Note the direction of chain travel... counter-clockwise... this tends to spin the nut off. I suggest you purchase a new washer from www.z1enteprises.com and use RED LOCTITE on the nut threads when reinstalling.

pstrbrc wrote:

About the sprocket- I'm going to use an impact wrench on it. You really think I'm going to have to wedge the sprocket?

With the transmission in gear, you shouldn't have the slightest problem popping the countershaft sprocket nut off with an air impact wrench. I never have with any bike I've ever worked on.

CoreyClough wrote:

Cam chaim replacement can be done without splitting the cases. Been there, done that just recently. Remove the oil pan, to better aid with this, and you'll also get a look what's in the oil pan.

No! You don't understand! WANT TO SPLIT CASES!!!
Honestly, I love an excuse to take stuff apart. Took the wife's clothes dryer apart last night, 'cause it was too cold in the garage to work out there. Yes, I put it back together. Yes, it works. IS FUN. WINTER COLD. AM BORED.

Hey Bruce, I don't know if this has been suggested yet but when I replaced my front sprocket, I left the old chain wrapped around the old sprocket. I then threaded a long screwdriver through the links on both ends of the chain, near the sprocket. This locked the chain and sprocket and then used a long breaker bar (actually a pipe placed over the handle of a long breaker bar) and lots of pressure to remove the nut.
Ron

ronjones wrote:

Hey Bruce, I don't know if this has been suggested yet but when I replaced my front sprocket, I left the old chain wrapped around the old sprocket. I then threaded a long screwdriver through the links on both ends of the chain, near the sprocket. This locked the chain and sprocket and then used a long breaker bar (actually a pipe placed over the handle of a long breaker bar) and lots of pressure to remove the nut.
Ron

WHOA. DING, DING, DING!!!!!
We have a winner! Man, that's genius!!!!
Put that one down as one to remember. Thanks!!!!