The charging system gremlin is still w/ me

I'm about to scream!!!I installed a rebuilt stator,new reg/rec,the damn thing still is showing no charge at the battery.I pulled the + cable off the battery while the bike was running to see if the alt. would support the bike,it won't,is that normal ??? Should the alt support the bike??I would have to think so but someone that knows what they're doing,should answer that one for me.I tested the alt at the end of the alt plug,30 v ac @ idle,80v ac @ 4 G,up to 180v ac when you whack the throttle,so i feel the stator is stating,brand new kaw reg/rec,checked all my plug ins 785 times they're fine,this things starting to tick me off.Oh, i don't understand what these little doo dads are in the fuseblock but the appear to be diodes,i couldn't get a ohms reading on them so i ran a diode test and im only getting power in 1 direction,the repair manual don't say a damn thing about what they are.There is 2 blocks in the bottom of the fuse block that has 3 diodes each in them,you can see from the pic.And how does the alt put power back in the battery???Through the entire wiring system???

not an alternator system.
you are making plenty of electricity at the stator but getting it rectified and regulated, then delivered to the battery seems to be the issue.

I would start at battery
go backwards to the reg/rct and to ground
ohm the wires from batt to reg/rct and both sides of plugs check all of them twice- sucess is in the details

check that reg/rct has a good ground -ohm wires and both sides of plugs
same with ac leads from stator to the reg/rct

there is a open in the circut

*amprage test in series with the battery ground wire will tell you total system draw, breakeven speed, and total charging rate to be absolutely sure*

(don't trust a voltage only testing procedure)

Trip,thanx for chiming in again bro!!!I'm confused about how the reg/rec reports power to the battery,the only wires going to my battery are a ground,w/ another ground from my dyna box,the + side has the battery cable to the solenoid and it has a white wire w/ a red tracer attached to it that goes to the fusebox.I used that charging test that OKC left in that other post,black wire on + side of battery,red lead on white wire coming out of reg/rec i was showing .6v the chart said that if you are showing greater than .2v there is a break in the positive wire between the reg/rec and the battery,i can't find a wire that runs from the reg/rec to the battery.I don't know if i'm making this more complicated than what it is but i feel like i'm getting lost in a sea of wires . :blink:

I wanna through this in also,if it makes a difference or not,the plug for the stock ignitor and the plug for the stock pulsing coils are hanging there w/ nothing plugged into them because i used dyna ignition,would this have anything to do w/ the break in the charging loop ????????

Post edited by: geerbangr, at: 2006/08/03 21:49

correct me if I'm wrong, there are 5 wires at the reg/rect

3 yellow we know what they do + ac volts
black - ground
red? or white? or brown? this needs to be batt+

(some units have 2 positive terminal connections switched and direct)

there needs to be a clear connection to batt+ from the reg/rct unit weather it is fused or switched what ever this is the missing detail

broken wires hide inside the insulation or at plug connections they may look fine but a meter at every junction will be the real guide

ignition connections are not in charging loop.

trippivot wrote:

...red? or white? or brown? this needs to be batt+

(some units have 2 positive terminal connections switched and direct)...

I'm pretty sure that the white/red is direct power, and the brown is a "switch" line to turn the reg/rect on for use when the bike is in use.

Trip,i have 6 wires coming out of the rr ,3 yellow from the stator,1 black/yellow = ground,1 brown=switched 12 volt,1 white=hot always . I do know now that the white wire from the rr must tie into the white/red wire @ the battery because i have continuity when i test from the white wire @ the rr to the white/red @ the + side of the battery.Now what should i do ????

sounds like you have the wiring right. hook it up

I know this is frustrationg but if it is still not working you need to start at the begining and do it again.

load test the battery good or bad?
stator continunity test
stator insulation breakdown test
unloaded potential ac voltage test from the stator
reg/rct diode tests- all 6- forward and reverse
fuses wires and connection integrity

that is all there is to the charging system

Check your coils also. Mine drove me crazy for a year before I figured out I had a bad coil sucking juice.

There are three wires from the stator going to your reg/rec. Either all yellow or yellow/red/blue. OUT of the reg/rec will be a brown wire, a black or black/yellow wire and a white/red or white wire. The brown wire is the electrical signal which is teed to the switched brown off the ignition switch. This brown tells the reg/rec the amplitude of the voltage. The black or black/yellow is ground and will typically plug into a ground on the solenoid. The white or white/red is the MAIN POWER OUT. It runs along and splits between the battery POS and the main input to the 20A fuse in the fusebox where it runs up to the ignition switch on the other side of the fuse. It could be you miss the battery leg as it actually attaches to the solenoid terminal with the main POS battery cable.

Wired,i have a w/r wire connected w/ the + battery cable at the battery,i don't have a wire that connects to the solenoid w/ the + cable . Is that what i'm missing ??? The wiring diagram doesn't show that either ?? Trip leave me a post when i could call you tommorrow if your goin to be available. Don would a bad coil actually show low voltage on the charging system ??

563- 940 3734 any time

FINALLY !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Trip thanx for all the help bro !!! I did the system draw test,that reading kinda confused me, my meter showed .21 , i thought it was supposed to show in the -,i did the running amp test and it showed +.22,so that should be fine,the volt meter on the battery showing 13.5-13.8 volts , i believe the bike is fine now, i put a hundred miles on the bike today started fine everytime,Trip jus some food for thought , i did replace thosed 2 diode packs, i guess that must have been part of the problem.For anyone who needs to get technical w/ the electronics of a bike,give Trip a hollar,he's great,if he can walk my thickheaded ass through the proper procedures,he can walk any of you guys through it !!!!!!! Sorry bro had to do it to you Thanx Again Bro !!!! :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo:



Trip if anything in those test results does'nt look right,hollar at me and let me know .