TOPIC:

This is for Fastest Z1. It's for a 76 Z1. Just thought I'd post it for others as well.

Thankyou very much!

loudhvx - Can you please explain the brown wire going to the regulator called the volt sense line in real plain English? Also, is this a "bare bones" drawing which eliminates the use of the kill switch and starter solenoid circuit? I note that the "brown" circuit out of the ignition switch is use to power lights.

Is the ignition switch used a Kaw type and if so, are the blue and red fused sub-circuits just not used? In other words, do you anticipate using the functions in the switchgear using this set up like turn signals and hi/low headlight beam function and the on/off headlight switch? Thanks

WG, IIRC FastestZ1 asked for a wiring diagram for a custom harness using the minimum wiring required, and this is Lou's answer.

This is using a separate regulator and rectifier system and the regulator needs some way of knowing the voltage requirements in order to control the voltage/current output, so it has the volt sense line.

Lou will probably be along later to either confirm or correct my statements

The diagram was a basic function diagram. I included the brown color code to specify which wire on the regulator gets switched power.

Steell explained it as plainly as can be explained.

If Fatsest Z1 wants to use the original ignition switch, I would recommend doubling up on the contacts as I have drawn on this updated diagram. The first drawing shows the basic idea. The second drawing is specifically for the stock switch.

The fuse is a single 20-amp, blade-type fuse in a weather-proof holder, available at any parts store.

I also have shown where you could put an optional fuse as some KZ's have. I think that two fuses would be a good idea, but as long as the wires don't short out, the optional one is not absolutely necessary.

The lights would go off that little arrow where it says "to lights". I'm sure Fastest Z1's brother will understand it (he helps out Fastest Z1 on the electrics).

Yes, he asked for a bare bones diagram, and that's what the first one is. He didn't specify what, if any, lights would be used, but lighting is pretty straight forward, so I just showed where to tap in.

This second diagram is not "bare bones".



Post edited by: loudhvx, at: 2006/08/02 12:08

I had never really thought about the brown wire before and it bothered me that I never thought about how the regulator would know how to adjust. Thanks for the tip! The other circuits can be kind of busy; especially with the addition of aux lighting and the on/off headlight switch. If you have ever wired a late wiring harness to an earlier set of switchgear and ignition switch, you can see that this gets pretty complicated as some of the hot leads are from splices internal to the harness itself. The brown is bad because it splits several times inside the harness. The stuff that comes off the kill switch also splits several times. Anyway, thanks for the tip! It would also seem to be a good idea to check voltage on the brown out of the ignition switch as this is what controls the regulator function and if you have chopped wires or bad splices as is often the case on this hot, it could cause the regulator to sense lower voltage (or current?) than it should if I understand this right.