TOPIC:

Ok, I posted a while back about the loss of power on my bike but I was very unspecific and hadn't even inspected properly. Now I've checked things out.

My bike: 1982 kz1000m

Problem: No power to ignition. I turn the key and no lights go on. Usually the oil/neutral/head lights will come on and then I fire up the bike. But now, nothing except the blinkers work and I can't figure that out.

I checked the fuses, all fine. I've been trying to follow the wiring table in the back of my manual but with no luck as of yet. I believe all of the wires are properly hooked up and grounded ok. Any tips??? Please help if you know wiring at all. I've inspected the battery end, but not the ingnition end. How would I diagnose a problem?

I question the battery, it may be on it's way out, would replacing it do anygood? I've even tried jumping the machine, and no luck then either.

How did you check the fuses? Visual inspection can be wrong. Double check.....Then check connections...check for loose, burnt or broken. Then its time for the meter to see where power is and ain't! Luck!

I checked visually and saw nothing. I then changed my main 30 fuse. nothing.

I dont have a voltage meter, is there anyway I could check without it. actually...well..I think I can find one.

You have a main POWER wire that goes from your reg/rec to the battery and main fuse box... it is a white wire that comes out of the fuse box and goes to your battery carrying power. That wire is hot all the time. The ignition switch takes this power, depending on key position and puts this power on one of the wires OUT of the ignition switch. There will be a blue, brown, red, white and orange/green wire coming out of your switch. Again, key position will determine which of these are hot I think... your bike is newer than I am really famiiliar with but the principal is to turn your bike on with the key. Check for 12VDC at both sides of the MAIN fuse which is the one connected to that initial WHITE hot wire... make sure you have power there. Then take your ignition switch connector apart. Check for power on the white pin (the MAIN white wire and not the smaller diameter white wire). If you have power here, then you can reconnect the ignition switch connector (do this while key is OFF). and then trace the blue, brown and red wires OUT of the ignition switch to where they connect into the switchgear OR back into the main harness and turn the bike on again and recheck for power (12VDC) at each of these connections. Two of the three will go back to your fuse box and through the two smaller fuses, or at least they do on older bikes. I suspect that you will figure out your ignition switch is a problem or one of the connectors into or out of the switch... Try looking at a wiring diagram for your bike and following the WHITE wire to where it switches (igntion switches) into the sub-circuits which are blue, red and brown on most KZ models. One last thought... go to your battery and trace the BLACK wire... it should terminate on your engine cases and is the MAIN GROUND. Make sure the wire isn't broken, the connections are good, etc. The turn signals on your bike MAY NOT rely on the main ground which connects into the wiring harness as the turn signals ground through a metal washer which connects to where the turn signal bases go so they might work if the main ground was undone or not connected securely.

get a test light! start at the battery.
a extra turn signal will work as a test light use the two ends 1- + other - -

batt. + and frame light or no light ?

one side of main fuse + frame- light or no?

other end of main fuse + frame- light or no?

this is where you start
if you get this far and have good power things get complicated from here out

Trippivot:
Question 1: + means positive terminal of battery? and frame means frame of bike? Sorry, but i'm an idiot:P

Question 2: one side of main fuse means one clamp that holds fuse in place?


I'll be getting a test light today, sweeeeet.

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Wired:
The ignition switch is the piece right on the handle controls, right? And I can check those points with test light also?

AWESOME! THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!!

yes one end to terminal other to frame ground. either of the ends interchange freely

check the fuse AND the wire ends (corrosion build up)
I've seen power on the wire but the fuse wasn't making contact.


better check for total power before isolating specific circuts

Ok I have a similar problem. Yesterday after I tightened chain (coincidence) the bike started to run rough, and this morning I barely made it home and when I shut it off I had only the neutral light, no headlights, no turns, no horn, no starting either. Checked all fuses, the three main and the single one under it, have power both sides. I have power to the starter solinoid and can jump it but no start.Main solinoid wire and both smaller one are hot too. Now it seems like something came loose and it ran rougher and rougher until whatever broke off completely. Ground to engine is good. I'll pick it apart til I get it but anyone know a problem area I can go to first..lol....and I thought my charging problems were big.

Yep I got all lights, from the positive terminal, and both sides of the main fuse. I've now started trying to locate the iginition side of the main power wire (white). It goes right to the key entry right? I have the headlight off and I'm working my way in...

Any help.... what should I be checking?

Squints
yep white is full time hot and goes to the key switch

controlled / switched hot will be white with a red tracer wire and brown wires. the white / red tacer goes back to the fuse block for ign and tail light power

I think I have the colors right but you'llbe able to tell with the new test light
keep us posted

Post edited by: trippivot, at: 2006/07/25 09:38

Spark
yellow with red tracer and a black wire on the 2 wire solenoid?

Post edited by: trippivot, at: 2006/07/25 09:37

Post edited by: trippivot, at: 2006/07/25 09:38

Vrrooooooom vroooom. She lives.

It was a broken wire at the ignition switch itself. The main power wire had broken off the point. I borrowed a buddies sodering kit and that was that. 1 month of worrying, tinkering, and no riding... all for 30 seconds of repair. Now she's good to go.

After rigging the headlight back up, I went out for a ride immediately and on my way home tagged on to the back of a 12+ gang of harleys. It was a good return to the road experiance (even though I wish it was 12+ kawi's)

Thanks for the help! I needed the assurance