Bored so working on gages

 While filling the gages it's best to add a bit at a time. I added fluid about three times letting it settle and checking the needle action. Once I got the needle action where I wanted it I needed to plug the hole. The smaller hole the better so I'm working on that. The first hole I used a piece of rubber inner tube that I punched out and used super glue to place it. This works well for the tachometer as there is nothing that will touch that plug. However the speedometer needs to be very thin as the milage wheels are very close to the oil housing. At first I used JB weld but them remembered Clay said you have to watch out for interference to the milage wheel. So I scrapped that off and settled on HVAC aluminum tape sealing the edges with superglue as a precaution. You need to make sure you have the surface very clean. Get all that silicon off. I used brake cleaner and Q-tips. I also used a small file and gently filed the surface where I wanted the tape and then more brake cleaner.
 
   



 

 

Decided to mount the new faces today which were bought from retro- cycle on ebay. I made a few bushings so there would be minimal pressure on the faces from the screw. I made the bushings a few thou longer than the face plate using a 1/8 brass tube stock bought at Ace. I made sure I removed the burs on the outside of the bushing and that it slipped into the faceplate with just enough clearance to hold it in place. First one took a bit but the other three bushings went quick. 
I used a washer abut the correct thickness and built its up to the desired thickness I was aiming for and drilled a 1/8 hole and used it as a jig and just ground and file to size. 

 

 

 



 

Hey Cra-z1 looking at your avatar there must be a potential BOTM amongst that stable

I also looked at a few more gages I have. One I looked at has quite a bit of ware on the lower support underneath the bell drive. If you have a lot of movement here the gage could give you problems so best to remove from service or try to bush the shaft which is what I might try to do. There should be no noticeable movement at this location.

 

Wookie58 wrote:

Hey Cra-z1 looking at your avatar there must be a potential BOTM amongst that stable 



Probably. Im just finishing up one I will post in a few weeks.

 

Very good job you´ve done , with good solutions!

Something to maybe Help anyone playing with these gauges? I've amassed a large collection of "original faces". Sometimes one doesn't want an aftermarket and would rather maintain some of the patina. Anyhoot, about half of what i have is   in pic. 

There is a lot of great ideas on this subject. I have been reading the post on the 3d printed dies. Great idea. I had an idea on crimping the ring but it didn't pan out so back to the drawing board. I have a few more ideas spinning in my head but for the meantime I went back to the basics (as in a hammer) to start the crimp then finish with a modified set of pliers so here are the results. I use my press to hold everything snug so I can begin to carefully tap the edges over to about 45 deg or a bit more. I may use a drift to go past 45 deg. Takes about 10 min. At that point the half will stay together and I finish with my pliers. The example below was with new rings. Using the old rings may be a bit easier as they have a memory of the old bend. 
I have an another 7 gages to go through but my main goal was to get a good set of spare gages for my early Z1 (OCT 72 BUILD DATE). now I can switch gears and finish a bike I started a few months back now that I have my reworked head

 

 

 

 

I mentioned I was going to repair some wear to the lower needle shaft bearing. The lower portion of the shaft is just under 1mm. I have ordered some brass tube that measures 1mm id and 2mm od which should be perfect for this repair and will hopefully save these gages that will be hard to find in the years ahead
Again this is the repair that is needed. To much play at this point which may cause erratic needle movement
 

Cra-z1
those gauges look great.... 😃