TOPIC:

It seems like the top right hand Port is burnt I'm wondering what this is do you have any information? Should I get a new one

That is a typical OEM shunt style R/R.  Units like this are prone to over heating, and they load your stator as well, which can cause it to run hot.  A series type R/R, such as a SH775, shuts off the stator when the power demands of the bike are met, so the entire system runs cooler.  A superior product.  Buying a SH775 can be tricky, though, because there are tons of fakes in the marketplace.  Your best bet is to buy a used one from ebay, but make sure the plastic connector isn't broken, and make sure you can see "SH775" printed on the top fin before purchase.

Thank you for the info.

Other than the connection and mounting holes, I would think one R/R would be the same as another. So I don’t understand why they are know to go out on some bikes but not others.

Here's the R/R Ness is referring to. YES..watch-out for cheap chinese copies please!! If you can get it for 49dollars then it's NOT going to be real!! I use a connector harness from a Triumph and modify it accordingly. There are differences in R/R units, note you have that "extra" brown wire on yours. This goes to a switched + supply to get it working.

I am ready to purchase the regulator rectifier I was wondering where did you get that Triumph one and does it work for a 1981 kz1000? 

KZNewbie76 wrote:

I am ready to purchase the regulator rectifier I was wondering where did you get that Triumph one and does it work for a 1981 kz1000? 

Triumph harness PN T2500676.  If you use google on that PN, you will find lots of places that can get you one.  You will have to modify the wiring to tie into your bikes harness.

Regarding a SH775, I have a couple for sale.

 

asphalt900 wrote:

Here's the R/R Ness is referring to. YES..watch-out for cheap chinese copies please!! If you can get it for 49dollars then it's NOT going to be real!! I use a connector harness from a Triumph and modify it accordingly. There are differences in R/R units, note you have that "extra" brown wire on yours. This goes to a switched + supply to get it working. 

Question - why does the brown need to be connected to a switched supply for the RR, the brown is already fed from the ignition switch via the fusebox (assuming as an 81 it's a "J" model) and the RR as I understand takes it's sensing voltage internally and doesn't require connecting to the brown -  Am I wrong and if so why please? always keen to learn
PS: the burnt port is most likely due to a worn/corroded female pin which will cause the connection to heat up

I deleted mine and used it for something else.

Wookie if i understand the question? Yes the brown wire is switched to positive at the ignition switch along with different whatever. But some R/R's require that "signal" to start producing fruit. Maybe MOSFET built into them?? 

asphalt900 wrote:

Wookie if i understand the question? Yes the brown wire is switched to positive at the ignition switch along with different whatever. But some R/R's require that "signal" to start producing fruit. Maybe MOSFET built into them?? 

That is correct but the 775  RR appears to be a 5 wire so it's not used (the OE RR does use it) as the generator on these bikes doesn't have an "exciter circuit" (the ignition feed on car alternator) the ignition live supplies "system voltage" which the RR regulates. A 5 wire RR senses system voltage from the red output lead internally 


 

Hopefully, Wookie can check this...

First, is the standard way to install a SH775 on a Suzuki GS bike.

Second, the standard KZ1000 charging system

Lastly, modified KZ charging system with SH775 added.

 

Hi Ed, see my post in this link, 
www.kzrider.com/forum/4-electrical/62041...lator-rectifier-info
The later KZ ("J" models and later 750's)would be the same as the GS because the RR output is fused on it's run to the battery so you would delete the brown and connect the + from the RR to the red/white wire in the original loom for the RR. Earlier bikes would also delete the brown and the red from the RR would go to the battery side of the starter solenoid or direct to battery + terminal (ideally through a 30a fuse especially if using a lithium battery like an "ultrabat")