Replacement fuse box questions

Questions regarding the three 10A legs that are fed by the one blk/wht wire, the headlight, horn/ignition, tail/meter. 

When replacing fuse box, noticed that internally the original fuse box had these three legs tied together via bar. 

As far as replacement goes, what's the best way to tackle it?

The thought of soldering three wires to the one doesn't sound very feasible, please advise.

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Have you got a picture of the connectors on the fusebox

It's a hella 6 blade

If it looks like this and you are using crimp connectors you can loop them as per below (use the bigger blue crimps for the ones with 2 wires going into them

 

It just seems like for the ignition/horn to be one of those three, 12V's needed at ignition becomes, well much less

This is a different one I'd bought but didn't use. Was 6 circuit, I removed the 3 legs on one side.

So couldn't I just power the stud with wht/blk 12V and have them 3 run off this box.

 

Gdailey2112 wrote:

It just seems like for the ignition/horn to be one of those three, 12V's needed at ignition becomes, well much less

Not sure what you mean here, the three fuses are in "parallel" so the voltage would be equal at all three (not that it matters as this isn't the fuse-box you have)

 

Gdailey2112 wrote:

This is a different one I'd bought but didn't use. Was 6 circuit, I removed the 3 legs on one side.

So couldn't I just power the stud with wht/blk 12V and have them 3 run off this box.

 

Potentially yes as long as the internal circuit is as indicated below (you can check with an ohm meter) I thought in your headlight post you said you had already replaced the fuse-box so what is the issue with that one (I was under the impression everything was working)