TOPIC:

i was just going replace the rectifier … so … id like to rip out all the wiring and get rid if all the unused components (Siren, flashing lights, etc…) and install basic gauges and components.  It seems to me that it would be easier to do this rather than trying to work around the complications of this mess…ive never done this stuff before….any advise or direction would be super appreciated 

Start by de-wiring one component at a time. Take it back to the factory harness. Unplug it or unsplice it then make sure the harness is sound before moving on to the next thing. But do them completely, one at a time. If you’re unsure, don’t rip it out, ask around.
Theres a flasher unit inside the fairing above the headlight.

Blipco gives good advice, I don't know what your skill levels are when it comes to electrics but the best advice I can give is don't "just dive in" think about what you want to achieve. I can assure you that the hardest electrical faults to diagnose are the ones that you "create yourself"

One of the reasons I paid on the high end for my KZP was that it was a low mile brand new looking backup bike for a police department so it never saw any duty and NEVER had any sirens, lights, radio or PA system HACKED into the wiring. And they do hack it.
So that part was easy.
I’m a retired electrician of decades who’s done plenty of control work. When I add or fix wiring on a bike I take way longer than anybody else I’ve ever seen because I know that just one electrical fault can totally mess up a trip plus I hate working on automotive systems so I only want to do it once.
Better to take two or three hours for a one hour job at home than to call for a tow truck 100 miles from home I always say.
Factory wiring is best left alone but certainly can be improved upon.

 

www.bikeexif.com/motorcycle-wiring

ok the panic has subsided a bit... here is a more specific question... 

the old Rectifier had 6 wires  and plugged into the a clip - 3 yellow wires to the stator and ...i dont know because they go into a harness  I am assuming 1 to the battery, 1 to ground and i have no idea where the other goes...

so now the new rectifier has 5 wires - 3 yellow to the stator,then ...
Red to the battery (can this be directly wired to the positive terminal or does it have to go through the clip)?
Black to ground ( again, can i ground this to the frame or does it have to go through the clip)?

 

MALCOLMHOULE wrote:

ok the panic has subsided a bit... here is a more specific question... 

the old Rectifier had 6 wires  and plugged into the a clip - 3 yellow wires to the stator and ...i dont know because they go into a harness  I am assuming 1 to the battery, 1 to ground and i have no idea where the other goes...

so now the new rectifier has 5 wires - 3 yellow to the stator,then ...
Red to the battery (can this be directly wired to the positive terminal or does it have to go through the clip)?
Black to ground ( again, can i ground this to the frame or does it have to go through the clip)?


 

Ok, firstly the ignition live (brown)isn't required with a modern regulator so carefully insulate the brown coming from the harness. The red I would take to the battery side of the starter solenoid and I would recommend fitting a 30amp fuse in this line. The Ground is best taken to the negative terminal of the battery.