7th Gear Designs

Wookie58 wrote:

I would suggest that you go back through the install and check all grounds and power supply's with a voltmeter, as Doc says ensure you are using "resistor" plugs.
You might want to try installing "exactly" as per the instructions without your mod to include the original baseplate - hopefully the unit isn't faulty as reading the "warranty terms" you have no warranty due to your modification of the base plate (cutting a hole in it) !!!!!      

The warranty is something I don't even consider. And not because I cut the hole (it's a separate board from the circuit) but because I didn't buy from Power Arc but from 7thgeardesigns which is a reseller and doesn't even answer my emails about this problem.

All terminal connections were made by crimping and soldering. I used resistive wires and plugs as provided by 7thgeardesigns.

Wookie58 wrote:

Are you sure you have a "good" ground on the brown and blue - you can check his with a voltmeter with the engine running (meter on DCV black meter lead to battery negative terminal - red meter lead to your ground connection, any more than 0.3v signifies a bad ground which triggers a softer advance map)

I can't understand how a softer advance map could cause this erratic behavior. I understand that a softer mapping would provide a smooth driving experience, but not a spark delay from 5,700 rpm onwards.

The softer map is likely to have less "maximum advance" - I only suggest checking your grounding as I read an article where a guy with a Honda 750SOHC had exactly the same issue at around 5500 rpm because the blue and brown weren't grounded fully
Did you test the ground with a voltmeter as I suggested ? 

Wookie58 wrote:

The softer map is likely to have less "maximum advance" - I only suggest checking your grounding as I read an article where a guy with a Honda 750SOHC had exactly the same issue at around 5500 rpm because the blue and brown weren't grounded fully
Did you test the ground with a voltmeter as I suggested ? 

I did that check just as you told me (engine running, black meter to negative battery, red meter to coil ground along with brown and blue wires), and the voltage measurement is 0.0v. Too bad, I was almost convinced that was the problem.

So I guess there's no other option than an incorrect advance map.

Well, to check this I need a gadget that converts serial port to USB:

 

I have the intuition that having an RS-232 serial port (I have it) I could connect the ignition board directly to the PC (and thus save $150).
I have written to PowerArc to see if they can send me the electrical diagram with the pin layout. So far no response.
Not getting a response from the manufacturer/seller is becoming a habit haha

If this is not possible I will have to buy that device.

I sent a message two weeks ago to Jim from 7thGearDesigns:

After several tests I am almost certain that the ignition map is incorrect.
I would appreciate it if you could send me the correct map so that I can get the data cable and install it in the ignition.

What is the reason you decided not to answer all my emails?
Have I ever been rude to you?
I tried to be nice, I never bothered you more than necessary. But you have turned out to be a seller that I would not recommend to anyone under any circumstances.

Again, no response. Same as all the previous ones since 2022, when he decided to stop responding.
I wanted to make a note for future buyers, as I feel this is not personal with me, or if it is, I really don't know why.