Possible starter relay issue

-New battery at 12.39V
-SH775 Reg/Rec
My bike doesn't like to sit, so I did a bit of troubleshooting; key off, I get full voltage to my frame. After disconnecting everything else, I discovered that both posts of my starter relay are showing voltage, so it's traveling through the starter wire, engine, and frame.

My first thought is that my starter relay is toast, but it works fine, so I'm uncertain. It only fires the starter when the key is on and the button pressed. 

Not sure if this is related, but running I read 12.03V across the battery posts, which climbs a bit if I hold the engine at 4,000. After I shut off, the voltage climbs back up to 12.39. 

Put briefly; should both posts of my starter relay read 12V?

Short answer is there should only be voltage on both posts when the solenoid is operated ( and then I would expect around 10.5v when cranking the starter)
Voltage across battery should be 13.5v plus when the engine is running and revved to around 3000rpm (sounds like it isn't charging)
There is a test plan for the starter circuit in my guide (third to last page) what ever is going on may be the reason it's not charging

www.kzrider.com/forum/forum-index/faq-wi...-fault-finding-guide

Wookie's guide has lots of great info and tests, check it out. I would also suggest you look at whatever sort of lock out system it has (clutch/side stand) as it is what should allow the starter relay to function correctly.

The relay will show voltage as the ground goes through the starter.
The ground will show up on the starter side if the button is not pushed.
one probe on one post of the relay.
the other probe on the other relay post.... you will see battery voltage.
Press the button... voltage goes to 0.0v hopefully. Usually, it just really close to 0.0v.

But not sure where exactly sure where you put your meter leads.

Thanks for the input everyone. 

Wookie, I'm gaining some good info from your troubleshooting guide, but I'm not currently having any starting issues - just wondering if I have a parasitic drain.

With the negative battery cable disconnected, and putting the black probe of my multimeter onto the negative terminal, I can touch the red probe to the negative cable and get full voltage; same effect with the red probe on my engine or frame. 

I did just go out and replace the wire that connects my R/R to the positive terminal (it looked very corroded) and my battery now charges above 13 volts at 3,000 - I felt bad running it that high while stationary so I'm not sure how high it charges to, but it's somewhat charging. 

wrote:

Thanks for the input everyone. 

Wookie, I'm gaining some good info from your troubleshooting guide, but I'm not currently having any starting issues - just wondering if I have a parasitic drain.

With the negative battery cable disconnected, and putting the black probe of my multimeter onto the negative terminal, I can touch the red probe to the negative cable and get full voltage; same effect with the red probe on my engine or frame. The ground side of any consumer will show battery voltage when the ground is open circuit back to the battery, however for that to happen the consumer would have to be switched on (otherwise the battery would drain as soon as you connected the ground cable)  If you suspect a drain you need to move the lead on your meter to the 10amp position and connect the mater between the disconnected ground lead and battery negative terminal. If you have a current reading then you have a drain, it's then a case of pulling fuses or disconnecting things until the meter reading drops to zero to identify the source of that drain.

I did just go out and replace the wire that connects my R/R to the positive terminal (it looked very corroded) and my battery now charges above 13 volts at 3,000 - I felt bad running it that high while stationary so I'm not sure how high it charges to, but it's somewhat charging. Cool, that's one issue solved then