1984 KZ550 F2 - Zero power after new battery, kickstand switch issues

wrote:

• Right, gonna replace all fuses just for peace of mind. Read around and they seem to be AGX format? The 10amps I can find are 250V, the only 20 I could find was 32V, any idea which are the right voltage for these bikes (again, very little electrical knowlege, barely even understand what voltage signifies)?

If it helps think of electrics in plumbing terms, an electrical circuit is the same as a heating system in your house with the radiators being the consumers and the pump is the battery
Volts = Pressure
Amps (current) = Flow
Ohms (resistance) = Restrictions to flow

 

I'll jump in.
I got some coffee so I can somewhat think properly.

Get your meter out.
Meter set to DC V
Key switch to off

Black probe on negative battery post (post is the metal part of the battery not the battery cable)
Red probe on positive battery post
What is your voltage? (type your voltage to the tenth-example 12.6V)

Key switch set to on
Ignition switch set to run
Engine not running

Black probe on negative battery post
Red probe positive battery post
What is your voltage?

Move your red probe to any metal part of the engine case.
what is your voltage?
Voltage here will need to be close to 0.0V and steady.
0.5V is usually the limit of this reading. Anything higher is a ground path with high resistance.
If the voltage fluctuates then you have ghost voltage which means your ground is not reaching that part of the engine case.


Turn off the key switch

Either fuse voltage rating will be fine.
You don't want to have a fuse rating below your circuit voltage(example---using a 10amp 6volt fuse in a 12volt circuit--don't do this).
The fuse rating has to be above 12volts for your motorcycle.