Bike was down in Mexico Beach, FL only blocks from the ocean. I'm wondering if the salty rain caused this issue. If so, what is it? Has a new gel battery that's fully charged. Turn key to on but nothing occurs. Usually, I hear an audible click accompanied with visual aids by the various illuminations. Not the case today. Nothing happens at all. Anyone know where I'll need to check voltage. I have checked from batt terminal of solenoid and DO have voltage there. Not sure what to do next. Please help. TY
Black probe on battery negative post (post being the negative part of the battery not the cable)
Red probe on positive battery post
What is your voltage to the tenth of a volt( example 12.6v)
move the red probe to each of the fuses.
both sides of each fuse.
what are the readings?
Move your red probe to a metal part of the engine case.
What is your voltage?
The voltage should be close to 0.0 volts and steady.
If the voltage fluctuates then you have ghost voltage and the circuit is open.
12.99VDC @ batt terminal, same at solenoid. stopped and was just lookin @ it, the bad nature of what that salty atmosphere had done, so I sprayed 'r down good with water. semi dry I turned the key and BINGO
BRB w/ more vdc readings...TY 4 replies
took trickle charger off
battery voltage is 12.99vdc and with key on checked voltage and it'd descended down to 12.43vdc at fuses
neg probe on neg batt term and red probe to ground on bike ..seems to have some slight ghost voltage readings
also noticed white headlamp indicator light is on but the actual headlamp is very dim -- not to confuse with the blue high-beam indicator light but rather the white indicator light
haven't tried to start it just yet as I really want to go through it thoroughly due to all that fine white sand blowing around down where it was.
just had carpel tunnel surgery this morning so everything is quite challenging right now.
many thanks to all you fine folks for the needed assistance
had more time to look at it closer today. ok I have tested the headlamp circuit by neg probe to batt - and pos probe to the red/yel of the three prongs of headlamp connector and with low beam selected key ON = 11.81vdc then with high beam selected = 10.49vdc
I stopped there knowing something wasn't jiving I thought I better hear from those in the know before going further. thank you for your time
Did you ever take the voltage readings at the fuses that F64 suggested ?
If you look at my elec fault finding guide in the FAQ section of the forum menu (I don't seem to be able to copy links on an iPad) and specifically look at the section around resistance faults which is what you appear to have given the voltage drop, you should be able to work back to the source of your problem
Your ground wire to your frame needs to be a steady 0.0V with the key on.
(black probe on negative battery post/red probe on ground wire at frame mounting point)
You can get away with a maximum of 0.5V.
Try to get it to 0.0V if you can by cleaning connections and making sure the connections are tight
(sometimes the wire is corroded internally and you can't see it or clean it).
Current needs to be flowing when you take these measurements hence the key switch needing to be on.
You can move that red probe along your ground wire to see where the voltage problem is.
For instance, leaving the black probe on the negative battery post(metal part of the battery)
and move your red probe to the negative battery cable lug(the metal part of the negative battery cable that is clamped to the post).
If you see 0.0v or higher here, that battery terminal has an issue(0.0v instead of 0.5v because these two measuring points are pressed against each other).
It could be loose, corroded, or anything that would limit the current flow.
The probes will be few millimeters apart on the same wire, but you can zero-in on where the problem is.
You can also check a connector.
Leave the connector corrected.
meter to DC V
Current has to be flowing through the connector.
If it's a headlight connector, then the headlight has to be on.
Back probe one side of the connector with the red probe and the other side of the connector with the black probe.
Anything higher than 0.5 is bad (I would strive for 0.0V since it's a connector and only a few mm of wire involved).
This technique can be used to check ignition switches easily
Resistance measurements can't be trusted.
You can have a wire with 1000 strands hanging on by 1 strand give you a 0.0Ω but it won't pass the needed current.
Your ghost voltage basically means your black probe (negative battery post) is not connected electrically to where you put your red probe.