TOPIC:

wrote:

I don't see an option for choosing between AC & DC on my multimeter but I'm pretty sure I got it right.  I checked the front turn signals because I know those were working & got right around 12 volts...I got nothing on either high beam or low beam when I tested the H4 plug.  Took apart the left switch hoping maybe the brass bits were corroded...they looked fine & still no light.

Did you try using a different ground source?

wrote:

wrote:

I don't see an option for choosing between AC & DC on my multimeter but I'm pretty sure I got it right.  I checked the front turn signals because I know those were working & got right around 12 volts...I got nothing on either high beam or low beam when I tested the H4 plug.  Took apart the left switch hoping maybe the brass bits were corroded...they looked fine & still no light.

Did you try using a different ground source?

Yes....bolt head on the lower triple & one from the motor too.

I've got a new left switch coming...it's pretty ate up, cosmetically speaking.  If I'm lucky, maybe the switch wiring is the issue here.

Just replacing parts hoping to fix the problem can get expensive. The problem could be in the ignition switch not powering the headlight circuit

EDIT: There are guys way more versed in electrical diagnostic than I. You know the device isn’t working. You need to work your way backwards toward the power source till you find the beak. Have you tested the headlight by rigging up a remote power source. You can test components by using resistance and continuity testing. One other issue is the replacement hand control, it needs to be a wire for wire plug in or your opening up a whole other can of worms. 

See black circle on the included schematic. This powers your headlight circuit. Check to make sure it’s connected. 

the only 3P connector is see in the schematic is for the brake light failure relay. What are the colors of the wires on the connector? Green/white, black/yellow, blue?

 

I'll jump in to help.
Plug in the headlight.
Everything must be connected.

meter set to DC V
motorcycle key switch-on
motorcycle kill switch-off
engine not running

Black probe on negative battery post (post is the metal part of the battery that the cable connects to)
Red probe on positive battery post
What is your voltage to the tenth(example 12.4 volts)?

Move your red probe to the fuse with the solid blue wire in the green square.
Put your probe on the metal terminal for that blue wire.(second picture--red square)
What is your voltage to the tenth?

Move red probe to the other side of the fuse in the pink square-blue wire white stripe
What is your voltage to the tenth?

Turn off bike.

photo:kz440 fsm
 
 photo:pdxphoneguy
 

wrote:

I'll jump in to help.
Plug in the headlight.
Everything must be connected.

meter set to DC V
motorcycle key switch-on
motorcycle kill switch-off
engine not running

Black probe on negative battery post (post is the metal part of the battery that the cable connects to)
Red probe on positive battery post
What is your voltage to the tenth(example 12.4 volts)?  12.97

Move your red probe to the fuse with the solid blue wire in the green square.
Put your probe on the metal terminal for that blue wire.(second picture--red square)
What is your voltage to the tenth?  12.38

Move red probe to the other side of the fuse in the pink square-blue wire white stripe
What is your voltage to the tenth?  12.37

Turn off bike.


 

wrote:

See black circle on the included schematic. This powers your headlight circuit. Check to make sure it’s connected. 

the only 3P connector is see in the schematic is for the brake light failure relay. What are the colors of the wires on the connector? Green/white, black/yellow, blue?

 

I'm not going to worry about that connector...if it doesn't have anything to do with my current headlight issue, I'm not worried about it.  I do appreciate the help you provided.  It's funny...when my sons bike had the same issue with a headlight not working, the ancient, retired Honda tech I spoke to told me exactly the same thing you did about just replacing parts hoping to solve the problem    He was right...it wasn't with any of the switches.  Turned out to be a short in the main harness.  He told me how to bypass it.

key on
kill switch off
Headlight connected

meter still on DC V

Black probe on battery negative post
Red probe each wire on the headlight connector(green box)
You will have to back-probe the connector because it has to remain connected to the headlight.

When you put the red probe on the Black/yellow wire the voltage should be very close to 0.0v and steady--not fluctuating.
what is your voltage?

The red/black wire should be close to 12.0v when your high beam is selected.
what is your voltage?

The Yellow/red wire will be close to 12.0v when your low beam is on.
what is your voltage?

Turn bike off

Does your high beam indicator come on when the high beam is selected?



 

wrote:

key on
kill switch off
Headlight connected

meter still on DC V

Black probe on battery negative post
Red probe each wire on the headlight connector(green box)
You will have to back-probe the connector because it has to remain connected to the headlight.

When you put the red probe on the Black/yellow wire the voltage should be very close to 0.0v and steady--not fluctuating.
what is your voltage?  0.01, steady for about 10 seconds

The red/black wire should be close to 12.0v when your high beam is selected.
what is your voltage?  0

The Yellow/red wire will be close to 12.0v when your low beam is on.
what is your voltage? 0

Turn bike off

Does your high beam indicator come on when the high beam is selected? No



 

Your ground wire is fine.
You have a break in the 12v feed to the light.
hold on, i'll draw up the next test

key on
kill off
DC V

black probe on negative post
red probe on blue wire in the red box.
probe both sides of that connector.
Leave the connector together---do not disconnect it.
You have to back probe the connector.


 

Does it matter that I have the headlight bucket off the bike?  I found it easier to sort through the wires out of the bucket vs in it.  The stock sealed beam is off too...got a H4 halogen bulb plugged to the socket.