1980 Z1R Low beam, high beam indicator, head lamp warning, hazard issues

Hi guys, I'm a bit perplexed by my issues and was hoping to get some advice on my next step. 
My Z1R has some strange electrical issues and I'm not the best at electrical to begin with. First off, the headlight low beam, which should be on every time the ignition is on, is not. The head lamp out light is lit up on the dash, however, if you switch it to high beam, the high beam comes on. The high beam indicator light however, does not come on. It seems like a very weird combination of things going wrong that seems rather contradictory. Also the hazard switch does not work, but the turn signals do. Ive had that issue before and replaced the relay and that fixed the problem, but it now isnt working again. I took off the headlight/turn signal switch and was able to get the high beam to come on by using a piece of copper wire to complete that circuit, but couldn't get the low beam to come on. I replaced both the headlight and the high beam indicator switch bulbs, but they still wont come on. I'm just kinda stuck. I also don't really understand the wiring diagram, particularly the switch for the headlight and turn signal. I have attached the wiring diagram. Just looking for advice on what to do next. 
Thanks, Colin

Hi Colin I see from your profile the bike is a D3 model. I am assuming it is a US/Canada spec. That being the case I have had a look at the wiring diagram and the US spec bikes have quite a complex lighting system, it’s late now in the UK but in the morning I will put a test plan together for you. Do you have a voltmeter and are you comfortable with it ?

Good morning Colin. I have had a look at the manual (in the "articles" section) this morning and there is extensive information for testing the lighting system from page 291 onwards. This system is complex with "bulb failure" and "substitute" lighting functions etc as well as complex self cancelling indicators. I would suggest working through the factory testing sequence as I am sure any of these electrical parts will be hard to find and expensive if faulty (the European models didn't have this stuff so "US only") so you don't want to "misdiagnose" or "take a guess" 
Kawasaki KZ 1000 (A2A-A3A_MKII-A4-D3_Z1R) '76 thru'79 - Service Manual.pdf (kzrider.com)

Not sure if this will be of any help to you or not.  I find it easier to follow a color wiring diagram than a black and white one. Here is a color one for the D3.

You dont happen to have a higher quality image do you? I find I cant read that one.

wrote:

Good morning Colin. I have had a look at the manual (in the "articles" section) this morning and there is extensive information for testing the lighting system from page 291 onwards. This system is complex with "bulb failure" and "substitute" lighting functions etc as well as complex self cancelling indicators. I would suggest working through the factory testing sequence as I am sure any of these electrical parts will be hard to find and expensive if faulty (the European models didn't have this stuff so "US only") so you don't want to "misdiagnose" or "take a guess" 
Kawasaki KZ 1000 (A2A-A3A_MKII-A4-D3_Z1R) '76 thru'79 - Service Manual.pdf (kzrider.com)

Thank you Wookie, that will be my plan going forward. I do have a voltmeter and Im fairly comfortable with it. This is quite the perplexing problem so I'll be eager to go through the factory testing sequence and see what I can find out. Yes parts are expensive and rare so Id rather not throw money at the problem so I'll take your suggestion. It is a U.S. spec, my father knew the guy who bought it in 81.
 

Hi gd4now, colour is definitely easier to follow for sure. I think the challenge with this one is the complexity. The system uses reduced voltages for bulb substitution etc and the warning lights also operate at different brightness dependent on what is occurring, therefore you need to really be "on it" to interpret your test results and not end up replacing rare and expensive components unnecessarily, I still think the best bet on this one is to follow the manual as it guides you as to what results to expect (IMO) 

wrote:

Hi gd4now, colour is definitely easier to follow for sure. I think the challenge with this one is the complexity. The system uses reduced voltages for bulb substitution etc and the warning lights also operate at different brightness dependent on what is occurring, therefore you need to really be "on it" to interpret your test results and not end up replacing rare and expensive components unnecessarily, I still think the best bet on this one is to follow the manual as it guides you as to what results to expect (IMO) 

I wasn't aware of the fact the brightness has a meaning Wookie but great to know, I'll take a look at it when I get back home this evening and update you as I go along.
 

I can offer you a colored higher quality wiring diagram.

 
 

I agree the testing procedures of the system in the manual should be used to find the issue. As I said I find it easier to follow wiring diagrams in color than in black and white. Not trying to say a pic of the wiring system provides much more than just a pic of it.  

I currently do not recall where I got that pic from, but do not have a bigger version of it, sorry.  I know that I have had a much easier time making pics smaller than making them larger. without losing focus.

 

wrote:

I agree the testing procedures of the system in the manual should be used to find the issue. As I said I find it easier to follow wiring diagrams in color than in black and white. Not trying to say a pic of the wiring system provides much more than just a pic of it.  

I currently do not recall where I got that pic from, but do not have a bigger version of it, sorry.  I know that I have had a much easier time making pics smaller than making them larger. without losing focus.

Thanks, no idea why they chose to make the US spec so complex. I guess the Japanese do love a gadget 

I just scanned the FSM wiring diagram.  I should show up as an attachment to this post. 
I saved it as a PDF so that this site would not reduce the image size (as it does with JPG files).  It was scanned at 600 dpi so all the detail should be there.