1981 kz1000 no spark

Hello again everyone. I got my carbs cleaned up. The bike fired right up and was running good. I rode it around the block a few times. The last time I rode it, started sputtering real bad. Pulled it back in the garage and I could not get it started again. Pulled a plug out and I got no spark. Replaced the coils and still nothing. Anybody have any suggestions?

What is your battery voltage and what is the voltage on the positive side of the coils?

Battery is reading 11.4 V. Battery ground to positive wire to coil I read 11.4 V. Reading from coil ground wire to positive coil wire I only read 2 V. Doesn't make any sense to me. I appreciate all your help.

I apologize. I am reading 13.2 V at battery. All other readings are the same.

Where in the world are you, US and European spec bikes have variations in the wiring ?
what model do you have (J,K,M)

I am in Arizona. Honestly I am not sure what model or engine I have. How can I tell?

You can determine the model by the frame number. It is stamped on the steering head part of the frame. There should also be a sticker there with the frame number and other info. The engine number will tell you which version you have. It is usually stamped into a flat pad on top of the transmission case.

You can find the relevant numbers here —  www.kzrider.com/filebase?task=download.s...id=1178&catid=64&m=0

That information is also printed on the back cover of the factory service manual, though this does not account for any engine swapping that might have happened.   www.kzrider.com/modules/ServiceManuals/K...Service%20Manual.pdf
 

Thanks for the info. So, from what I read it is a 1981, kz1000m1,csr,  new J engine. Mainly because it has spoke wheels. Is this correct?

Ok I am assuming the bike in your profile pic is the one we are talking about which looks like an "M" to me given the spoked wheels and leading forks. I am also assuming the voltage readings of 13.2v for the battery and 11.4v at the coils are correct which means you are loosing 1.8v which is excessive (0.5v drop is about the most you would want) this means a resistance fault (bad switch, corroded connector etc)
I have put together the below test plan for you - make sure when testing that  the ignition is switched on and the kill switch is in the run position - keep a check on the coils that they don't start getting hot depending how long the testing takes you. This plan takes you all the way from the coils back to the battery. Happy hunting 

wrote:

Thanks for the info. So, from what I read it is a 1981, kz1000m1,csr,  new J engine. Mainly because it has spoke wheels. Is this correct?

The wheels and forks "SUGGEST" it's an "M" however, it's fourty years old so who knows how it left the factory ? The best bet is to use the link TexasKZ posted and check the vin (the wiring checks I sent are the same for J-Kand M)