Ignition points issue

Hi all. Having an issue with the ignition on my 78 kz1000.
I bike is running very poorly and won’t idle unless the rpms are above 1500.  The carbs were recently rebuilt and were functioning well prior to this problem.  I discovered I had weak spark at all plugs .  I did the normal checks, coils ohms pri and sec all within spec. 
point gap good and rechecked. 
  Now the head scratcher,  while trying to  confirm the timing (static method) I could not get the point sets to show anything but closed. As in having continuity whether the points were open or closed! 
 I rechecked this twice on both sets. I can’t figure out how the bike ran at all in this state.
i figured that the condensers were shorted, although my experience is that the condensers usually fail to open not grounded.
but no, condensers checked out fine. The point sets were not accidentally being shorted out either. 
I finally disconnected the coil feeds, green wire and black wire and viola! Not short.
I had a new set of coils available and put them in after checking them as well. The same problem existed if connected to the point sets.
okay, where was the short. Checked all the wiring from the coils through the kill ,run switch, can’t find a short anywhere. 
IM STUMPED! 

Check the points to wire insulation is present.

 

Thanks for the reply!  Yes, I did check that having made THAT mistake in the past 
but no not the issue.   Knowing me I’m overlooking something obvious.
at present I’m tracing back the circuit through the run stop switch and wires in that housing. No shorts so far. 
but I know I’m missing something in my thinking and it will be a slap to the forehead and a “ you idiot” whin it gets sorted. 
ignition switch or clutch interlock switch issue? 
 

I'm guessing you tested continuity with the ignition off. Points continuity behaves differently with the ignition off to it does with it on. 

Do you have a dwell meter or timing light. If the bike starts and runs then you have to be close on the points gap. Did you bench sync the carbs and then do all the pilot, idle, and vacuum sync? Those out of spec will cause your problem. Also air leaks at the carb boots/holders.

Yup

Did it turn out to be the ignition switch issue Warren3200GT suggested?

You are going to have continuity either way.. open or closed points.(except as Warren3200gt stated-If the Kill Switch is switched to "off", you will see a break in continuity)
Tape up half of your intake and see if your bike runs better.
Then take the tape off and crack open your airbox to create a small leak.
Does the bike run better?

When the bike is running are your points contacts sparking when they open?
Are the contacts pitted?

Grab your volt meter
set to DC V

key on
igntion on
engine not running
points closed
All connectors connected(green and black wires to coils need to be connected to the coils)

Do the measurements within 5 minutes of turning ignition switch "on" to keep coils from overheating

Red probe on battery positive post(metal part of battery that the cable attaches to)
Black probe on battery negative post
What is the voltage to one decimal place (ex. 12.9v)

Move red probe to the positive side of one coil
note voltage (should be within 0.5v of battery voltage)

Move red probe to the other coil's positive terminal
note voltage (should be within 0.5v of battery voltage)

Move red probe to the points plate
note voltage (should be as close to 0.0 volts as possible. Higher than 0.5v then your ground connection to the points plate is not good)

Turn off bike
 

Thanks to everyone for their help!

I did confirm that the problem exists when the run/ stop switch is in the OFF position. 
it’s only one set of points that are having this problem.
I got a bike mechanic to look at it and he did confirm there was a short/ ground issue and because of it the bike is only firing on two cylinders.
which of course explained the rough runnng issue.
anyway I left the bike with him and he will sort it out and let me know what’s going on. 
and I with post the info when I know.