Tach wiring

The bike: 1982 KZ1100 bagger

So... I wired in a Dyna S, with all new wiring. Now of course the tach doesn't operate. Can I just wire the tach input lead to either of the coil primary leads from the Dyna?
Thanks,
RoMoMoTo

I think there is a small trick that needs to be played if a bike has twin coils... I think my buddy, Manjo wrote this trick up on his web site. If you go there and hunt up "tach install" or something along those lines, you should find it. If you need help with the explanation, send him an email as he lives in Mass. and is traveling out west right now but does look at email some. www.gis.net/~manjo If you contact him for help, tell him I sent you. Cheers!

RoMoMoTo wrote:

The bike: 1982 KZ1100 bagger

So... I wired in a Dyna S, with all new wiring. Now of course the tach doesn't operate. Can I just wire the tach input lead to either of the coil primary leads from the Dyna?
Thanks,
RoMoMoTo

The tach lead goes to one of the coil's primary connection to the Dyna (as you said), but that should still have been connected as normal. Did you cut wires or run your own wires?

The only difference with the Dyna over the stock electronic ignition is the dwell. I'd be surprised if the Dyna somehow disables the circuitry in the stock tach.

Post edited by: loudhvx, at: 2006/07/13 23:28

Thanks, Wiredgeorge and Loud. I ran new primary wires from the dyna directly to the coils. The jumper for the tach must tap into one of the originals somewhere in the harness. The wiring diagram in my Clymer manual shows the tach pickup wire in parallel with one of the coil primaries, so yesterday afternoon I went ahead and rewired the tach lead to the 2-3 coil. Works like a charm...

I never got an answer to a previous question, and maybe you guys can set me straight on this: After I installed the Dyna S, I dynamically timed the 1-4 side, but how do I do that for 2-3? There's no mark on the advance plate corresponding the the 1-4 timing mark, except for a TDC mark.
Also, my timing light cuts out about a couple thousand rpm. Junk light, or something involving the bike?

Thanks again, guys.
RoMoMoTo
'82 KZ1100 bagger

An inductive pickup that doesn't work when the rpms go up indicates a junk light. Honestly, just use the TDC mark for 2/3 and set the timing at idle using that mark. Loosen the two small socket head scrws on the 2/3 pickup and move it to get the timing mark on the advance to line up with the mark on the case. Of course, you need to move the inductive pickup to the #3 plug wire... To check your advance, just rev the engine and ensure it is moving as it should until the timing light stops working... full advance should be between 3K and 4K rpm as memory serves.

Thanks, WG. Isn't the "F" mark (on the 1-4 side of the advance plate) what should line up at idle? If so, the "T" mark on 2-3 (the only mark on that side) is in a different position.
Thanks,
RoMoMoTo
'82 KZ1100 bagger

F means fire ignition timing is done here
T is for valve adjustment (Top dead center)

DO NOT set timing at the T mark

set 1-4 at idle

the 2-3 pick up is perfectly 180deg. from 1-4
a straight edge will verify position

a degree wheel is needed if you want to create a F line at 2-3

I just put an F mark 180 from the 1-4 F mark.

Okay, I'll make a mark directly across from the "F" mark on 1-4.
Thanks for your responses.
RoMoMoTo