TOPIC:

The member that I was buying my replacement crank from is out of town for a while. So I thought id puttz around with the 750E1 I bough in the spring. Totally an Insignificant question, and I ask only so I don’t have any harness clearance or length issues. Not at all trying to do an OEM restoration. Just a solid mechanical rework it get keep another Kz road worthy. 

So the question. On my big four bikes the hand controls, brake light switches, and clutch interlock route between the dash mounts. Is that a similar routing for the E1. I’m changing out the handle bars back to factory style. As purchased it came with a set with way too much rise and a funky pull back angle. Please see photo and red circle, is that location correct for harness routing? I already ran the LH wires through the the same location on the left, but before I finish I’d like to know I’m correct. 

The red circled area is where both the RH switch and front brake wiring on mine are. However, I dont believe the bars are stock and it is possible thst the PO just found the route that suited best.  Either way its been like that since 2003


 

Did see the need to start a new post for another simple question. Ever sense I was made aware of the 1978 Kz650SR and its 1-4, 2-3 cross over exhaust I’ve wanted something similar. Maybe I’m going to get lucky. I found a set cheap enough to take a shot. I know they won’t fit my Big Four bikes but maybe on the 1980 Kz750-E1. 

Anyone know or would be able to help. Will the 1978 cross over SR exhaust fit the 1980 Kz750-E1

Stock photo just for reference 

 

The exhaust should fit the engine no problem, but the rear mounts are an unknown.  The 750 has removeable aluminum plates that the exhaust mounts to so if any mods are needed I think it's more easily done as compared to some other bikes that mount the exhaust to a frame point.

wrote:

The exhaust should fit the engine no problem, but the rear mounts are an unknown.  The 750 has removeable aluminum plates that the exhaust mounts to so if any mods are needed I think it's more easily done as compared to some other bikes that mount the exhaust to a frame point.

Thanks Ed. I understand the hanger part. I was more concerned about exhaust spacing and the down tube clearing the frame. All the photos I have seen the clearance between the down tubes and frame tubes are tight. 

I recently fitted a 4 into 1 that came with my 1982 GPZ750 to my sons KZ650, as Ed says, you may have to do something to the rear mounts on the exhaust,  but everything else bolts straight up, Its basically the same engine.....

Still working on the exhaust deal. They are 4 1/2 hours away. Might be a deal breaker, who knows. Any way puttzing around with the 750E1. Bought a used battery box, cleaned all connector. It needed a battery box because the PO cut up the original to fit a larger battery. Swapped in the correct handle bars. It had ??LTD?? Bars with horrible pull back angle. Put the bore scope in the cylinders and the PO was telling the truth. New rings on a nice cross hatch bore. Opened up the carbs, throughly cleaned without breaking the down, I know it’s a No-No, but the look really good so I’m going to take a chance. Need to set floats and ??Bench sync??. I know nothing about these, don’t even know what they are. Please help identify so I can proceed. Is there a bench sync for this type carb? How are the vacuum sync’d.

 

Just found the correct manual in our archives so I’m set on the sync if these are the original carbs. Still need a confirmation of what the are please.
 

They are the stock carbs.  Keihin CV34's.
Be sure to replace all the various O-rings.  The ones on the fuel Tee and fuel transfer tubes are typically rock hard due to ozone deterioration.  

Seconding - CV34s are kind of a pain to dis/reassemble but it's worth avoiding potential leaks. Spend a little time to maybe save a lot.

P.S. - loctite the screws on the flaps when reassembling. Or re-stake, if you have the patience. 

Set up my science lab, looks like I’m getting ready to bring Frankenstein back to life, no leaks, floats were really low, Makes sense as the PO said it was hard starting. I know the tank is a little high but that was on purpose as I wanted a little more fuel pressure to force any leaks to present. Set the floats to 4mm below gasket surface. Just going for a solid mechanical refresh. I appreciate all the input on swapping in new rubber but I’m taking a chance on them as is. I know hope is not a strategy but that’s my story and I’m sticking to it. 

Need to source new carb holders. Anyone?

 

I've got most of the O-rings for those carbs.  I buy in bulk.  If you can't find them local (harbor freight) then I can send you some.

Pilot Screw: 1.2 x 2.6
Pilot Plug: 1.5 x 2.8
Fuel Transfer Tubes: 2.0 x 5.5
Drain Screws: 1.4 x 4.0
Float Bowl: 2.0 x 67CARBURETOR HOLDER16065-1132

Carb holders 16065-1132