TOPIC:

This part is no longer available on Kawasaki and Partzilla.
Is there any other source to get one?
Or does someone have one for sale?
Or can mine be repaired?
Thanks!

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationHere's a new old stock one, but it is not cheap.  Ed

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configuration

wrote:

Here's a new old stock one, but it is not cheap.  Ed

Looks like ebay links to the item didn´t shown up anymore !?!?
###https://www.ebay.de/itm/284329559751?hash=item42335cc6c7:g:cVgAAOSwEypgdwlK### or search eBay item number: 284329559751

Thanks for the link! But I’ve seen this ebay part before posting and it is ridiculously expensive at $400 US.
I’m hoping for a more reasonably priced unit or I’ll just ride with a non working fuel gauge.

Someone have the knowledge to repair or to tell how to repair such an unit?

Or source for aftermarket/reproduction part?

I have not worked on one in the past but have worked on several from car/truck fuel tanks.  I am making an assumption here, so take this with a grain of salt, but if it is works like those on cars/trucks it should make use of a variable resistor. This resistor consists of a strip of resistive material connected on one side to ground. A wiper connected to the gauge slides along this strip of material, as the float moves up or down.  This sliding of the wiper is conducting the current from the gauge to the resistor. If the wiper is close to the grounded side of the strip, there is less resistive material in the path of the current, so the resistance is small. If the wiper is at the other end of the strip, there is more resistive material in the current's path, so the resistance is large.

I would suggest you also check and make sure the fuel gage itself it not playing a part in the issue.The current from the sender passes through a resistor that either wraps around or is located near a bimetallic strip. The bimetallic strip is hooked up to the needle of the gauge through a linkage and moves the needle. The bimetallic strip is a piece of metal made by laminating two different types of metal together. The metals that make up the strip expand and contract when they are heated or cooled. Each type of metal has its own particular rate of expansion. The two metals that make up the strip are chosen so that the rates of expansion and contraction are different.When the strip is heated, one metal expands less than the other, so the strip curves, with the metal that expands more on the outside. This bending action is what moves the needle.Again this is all based on car/truck sending units and may not be correct for your machine. 

I have repaired exactly one Kawasaki fuel sender. gd4now’s description is essentially correct. Whether or not it can be repaired depends on what is wrong with it. In my case, the spade connectors from the wiring harness continued into the tank where the resistor and such are. Partof one of them had rotted away, so I soldered a piece of 12 gage copper wire to replace the missing bit, and all is well.

You can see a small triangle remnant of what was missing.

 

Thanks guys; both of you are totally right!!
I dismantled the fuel sender and the resistor’s wire is broken. Possibly repairable but I don’t have the tools nor the skills to do so. I have been given an old used one with an unbroken wire but it does not read on the ohmeter. It presently is soaking in a container full of solvent.

I looked in the spare parts I got with the bike and there is a brand new sender in its OEM box!! However, it is not the right model (mounting flange is not round and have 6 mounting holes instead of 5) and of unknown part number (52005-1026). Looks it could work just by drilling the 5 mounting holes.  Float and its rod are identical. Will try this tomorrow.

Will also try to have the two other units repaired as my wife’s son has a friend that loves those challenges. To be continued...