Question on upgrading fuses

I have a 1976 KZ750 B Twin.  It is all stock.

I was curious if upgrading the fuse block to blade would "degrade" or devalue the bike.

What's the condition of the motorcycle?  If it's in really nice condition, especially mint or pristine, I wouldn't bother. 
I'm not aware of a 750 Twin having any intrinsic value, so it may not matter what you do.

FWIW, I'm still using the original fuse box w glass fuses on my 81 650-CSR & don't worry about them. I keep new spares on the motorcycle.  I've never had to replace a fuse on the 650 & once on a 400.

it is in "passable at best" condition. 
My first bike.  When I got it, it was a rolling frame and a box of parts.  Had it running a bit, (need to rebuild carbs still) it is blowing main fuse, but I think a lot of that has to do with they were using 1 1/4 inch, not the one inch. 
No one around me carries the 1 inch,  so was thinking in regards to to getting it back up and going, just swapping to the blade style. 

Many auto parts stores don't carry a very good selection of glass fuses any more, so you have to get them online.
I bought a pack of 20A & a pack of 10A.  I wouldn't get an assortment because those kits usually have several you don't need.

AGX fuses are 1".
AGC are 1-1/4".

wrote:

I have a 1976 KZ750 B Twin.  It is all stock.

I was curious if upgrading the fuse block to blade would "degrade" or devalue the bike.

The fuse box is separate from the main harness.  This same box was used on a ton of models through the 70s.  They are easy to find on Ebay and reproductions are also available.  If you only modify (or replace) the fuse box, and you make no modifications to the main harness, you have done nothing at all to devalue the bike.  It's completely reversible.

I replaced only the main 20A fuse in my fuse box with an in-line blade holder. I still use the original 10A glass fuses.  As you may have found, 20A is too much for the wiring in the stock fuse box, and the wires and plastic clips melt before the fuse blows.

This is an example of the in-line fuse holder I used, but I have no idea if this specific one is any good:   www.amazon.com/dp/B07DHLKSNY/

You can remove the existing fuse box and splice this into the existing wires in place of the 20A main fuse clips, and then plug the box back in.

If you're repeatedly blowing the main fuse, you have a fairly serious fault with one of the devices on your bike.  You're going to have to track that down before the harness or some other part is damaged due to high current.  You can't always rely on the fuse to save you.

I was actually looking at just that specific item...  (and yes,  really only looking at the 20A Main.)

I went this route (KZ440):

 


The block itself was $6 or $7 on Amazon.

By DOHC:  The fuse box is separate from the main harness.  This same box was used on a ton of models through the 70s.  They are easy to find on Ebay and reproductions are also available.  If you only modify (or replace) the fuse box, and you make no modifications to the main harness, you have done nothing at all to devalue the bike.  It's completely reversible. ....

Thanks.  I completely overlooked the fact that the fuse box assembly can be unplugged from the wire harness. doh.

Shade2k76:  this won't be much help, but CreativeWiringSolutions was one place where a direct swap blade fuse box was sold, but the original site is gone & the new site doesn't work.  Their fuse box was similar to the one Nerdy installed, but it had the stock type connector & wiring plus it was waterproof.  Maybe someone else sells something similar. ???  I did some basic searches but didn't have any luck.

Creative Wiring Solutions website is here: cwswiring.com/home-page

He seems to have started upgrading his website in the fall, but there's been no movement since. 

Here's a picture of his upgraded fuse box:

 

Cool find Kaylinator. Hope he gets back only soon. I’d give that a try.

I know I'm a bit late getting into this but I've been away from the KZ scene for a while so, apologies all around.  Watching Allen Millyard build his 6 cylinder Z1 on YouTube gave me the motivation to dust off the old KZ and get her back on the road.

Devalue the bike?  Is it in a concours level state now?  If not, then absolutely replace the fuse box.  As others have stated, finding the correct fuses is getting harder and harder and the fuseholders get weak over time resulting in heat that will degrade the stock box even more.  I have also had the fusebox melt before the fuse blew when a connector came loose in the headlight assembly and shorted to the housing.  This zapped my entire electrical system and killed my regulator and the dynamo's rotor.  Try finding one of those in good condition, good luck.  Stators, no problem, rotors, not so much.  I got lucky when someone bought the leftover stock from a defunct Kawasaki dealer and there just happened to be a NOS rotor still in the box in the pile that he was willing to sell me for a good price and I went with an aftermarket regulator.
  
It's a shame CWS is on hiatus, his plexiglas covered fusebox was a neat piece of kit that looks great installed.  It was plug and play and the blade fuses are much more reliable and easier to find than the glass ones.  It also gave you an additional circuit so if you are running an electronic ignition you can do away with the cheesy inline fuse setup that usually comes with them.

So, devalue the bike?  No way.  If I was looking over a bike that someone had upgraded the fusebox on, I would be happy that I didn't have to do it because it would be one of the first things I would do anyway.

Thank you so much for all of your help.  I have her running now (sort of) She is getting spark now, And I am working on getting it sorted.  
It is bogging out at 3k to 4k rpm.  Since it was a rolling frame and a box of parts when I got it, I think I am doing pretty good for my first bike.  
The main thing is, I know it can start and run, now it is just down to fine tuning.
Thank you all for the help and the information.  I greatly appreciate it.