Starts to lose spark, signal relay stops flicking, and headlight goes dimmer,
Then the bike dies at low rpm, kick starts again but sputters, dies after a minute of riding.
I put a new battery in it today
Same thing started happening after 15-20 minutes.
It has fresh 91 gas,
I had installed a new fuel filter which seems to have decent flow.
however the lighting issue and lack of cranking amps to the starter motor after Running for 15-20 monutes makes me think its the charging system.
Regulator Rectifuer, stator etc.
All the electrical works great when the battery is on the tender and significantly charged
Thanks, I will.
This Morning I made sure the regulator had a direct to frame ground connection because I had done a custom electrical mounting tray under the seat. Cleaned the plugs, started up No problem and everything worked strong. Rode it around the block until it started to sputter again and died just as i was pulling into the garage. Atleast i have eliminated one of t variables.
I have the Battery Charging now on the tender and i’ll check the voltages like/how you suggested this evening and post an update as soon as Possible.
Battery Steadily declines in voltage if key is turned with lights off (gauge lights and neutral light on ofcourse) but rests at 12.15 volts.(regulator OK?)
Battery steadily (but more quickly) declines in voltage if the headlight is turned ON, (Normal for lights to drain the battery if the bike isnt running)
If starter is activated it will rapidly decline in voltage.
12.38 volts at idle (1100 rpm) with lights off
12.25 volts at idle with lights on
12.4 v at idle with high beam on
12.21-12.16 v at idle with signals on
Drops to 11.8 volts if revving, even at above 4,000 RPM
11.6 v with blue unplugged, while running
11.4 v with green unplugged, while running
11.5 v with white unplugged while running
Does not seem to change at 4000 RPM
I measured 12.85 Volts at the white wire going to the Rectifier (congruent with the Battery)
So now that I have a schematic
And nailed down that the battery is definitely not charging; what is the first test I should make on the modules/wiring?
i know the blue plug feeds from the generator, mine is phase sensitive as its an early model A1 (pink blue yellow).
I had lengthened the wiring of the blue plug to snake up under the seat as I have hidden the electrical under t he seat. which wires can I probe in order to find out of the generator is in fact making electricity that (would) get to the regulator and rectifier ?
Did you check your battery acid Level??? Some battery cells need to refill with destilled water after "a full charge" on the battery tender.
A dead or dry cell can drop all the power you need and could be a pain in the a**!!!
Test the battery... if its good you should be able to load it to drop the voltage... it needs to recover to 12.6 on its own or its suspect of being good... the problem is batteries especially if the are bought online are old before you get them... we have discussed this issue at length on this forum about Chinese batteries bought online...