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kz750 bastard without a spark
- Pindakaas
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I have experience with bikes, but this is my first Kawasaki, love the bike, but it i dont have the knowledge yet to get it running, so im hoping you guys can help.
What have i done so far? I have swapped the ignition coils, no effect, sthe spark plugs are good, i have ordered an other igniter, still no spark. Then you might think the pickup coils are bad, but the seem ok, within tolerance according to my meter. So, whe have all good parts but still no spark.
Could it be that de igniter and the pickup coils not match? Have i overlooked anything?
because this is a bike made out of different models by someone else anything could be wrong, maybe even the connector.The previeous owner placed the wiring from another bike, probable used the matching ignitor, because there are no modifications on the connector.
Are there alternative ignition systems i can use to get it going?
This is the bike:
Pictures from the setup:
igniter:
Pickup coils:
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- loudhvx
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Your pickups use a mechanical-advance device. The igniter is from a later electronic-advance system.
If the pickups are good, you will want to make sure the advancer is working. Then you need the small metal ic igniter.
You may be able to make one if you cant find one.
s3.amazonaws.com/gpzweb/Ignition/GPZgmHEImod.html
You probably have the wiring issues as well.
Post photos of the regulator if you can.
1981 KZ550 D1 gpz.
Kz550 valve train warning.
Other links.
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- Pindakaas
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I'll post a picture from the regulator, but i havent tested it yet, thx for the headsup.
Im starting to think its a lot easyer to put in an m-unit and do all the wiring again.
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- Pindakaas
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- F64
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- 81-KZ440D2
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The m-unit uses ground switched inputs. All of your handlebar inputs have to be switched from 12v to ground.
It can be a fun time, but plan on a couple days of re-wiring.
81-KZ440-D2.
Louis Dudzik's GM HEI ignitor conversion installed 2015 s3.amazonaws.com/gpzweb/Ignition/GPZgmHEImod.html
Motogadget m-unit blue installed 2017.
LIC, NY
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- rangeroy
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with the system you have on at the moment you could change the pickups to gpz 750 instead of the igniter.
good luck
this is what I had & Loudhvx told me what to use
gpz pickups
this is the set up just half removed the techtronic system to see if the 750 pickups & 550 igniter would work, they do
1977 z650
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- Pindakaas
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Thx for the response, I'll try it this week.
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- loudhvx
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I think I would trust a Dyna S more readily. Dyna has proven to be a great company to do business with.
But in my opinion, the best design is the factory unit (both the early mechanical-advance and later electronic-advance). They don't energize the coils until the crank is actually turning. This is far more efficient and safer in case you leave the key turned on.
If you think you want to rewire the bike, I can draw up a simplified diagram so you can just wire the components directly.
1981 KZ550 D1 gpz.
Kz550 valve train warning.
Other links.
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- Pindakaas
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Thats good info, i will keep that in mind. Mission 1 is to test the engine from the bike i bought. I have the newtronic in the other kz zo im just using it for testing the engine and if it works ill buy the dyna and put back the newtronic in the other bike. If the engine is junk i'm using the other bike as a donor. I'm going to rebuild the bike, some welds are messy, engine needs attention and the wiring is a mess, it seems to work, but its not what the bike deserves. i only have a few hours a week to work on it, so it will take a while. A simplified diagram would be very helpfull, but im not sure wether to go for an m-unit or build it without. M-unit makes it simple, but its expensive becasue i will allso need switches and other stuff. I wouldnt ask you to draw a diagram if i'm not going to use it, dont want to waste your time.loudhvx wrote: I've worked with Newtronic systems over the years and they seemed more sensitive to voltage issues, especially low voltage. I was also not impressed by the small gauge wire they use. When the wire breaks, it's a pain to fix it. There were also some lawsuits related to Newtronic back in the late 1990's and early 2000's but I'm not sure if they were reliability related or not. A good one seems to work well. A bad one is a headache.
I think I would trust a Dyna S more readily. Dyna has proven to be a great company to do business with.
But in my opinion, the best design is the factory unit (both the early mechanical-advance and later electronic-advance). They don't energize the coils until the crank is actually turning. This is far more efficient and safer in case you leave the key turned on.
If you think you want to rewire the bike, I can draw up a simplified diagram so you can just wire the components directly.
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- Pindakaas
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