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Why wouldn't I do this
- fische
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As to why i want to do this, I believe the ignition switch is messed up. When i turn the key just right my taillight comes on, but if the bike bumps at all it will shut off and stay off. I'm assuming the problem is in the ignition switch, if anyone has any other ideas as to the problem do tell.
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- loudhvx
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my plan is (see wiring diagram ) to permanantly connect the red and red/blue wire just before/after the ignition. I was wondering if this would cause any problems or battery drains. I went through the whole diagram and don't see any problems, but i'm a rook (rookie) when it comes to this sort of stuff.
As to why i want to do this, I believe the ignition switch is messed up. When i turn the key just right my taillight comes on, but if the bike bumps at all it will shut off and stay off. I'm assuming the problem is in the ignition switch, if anyone has any other ideas as to the problem do tell.
I don't see a problem with doing that. Your "park" position on the switch will no longer light the tail, but you probably never use that position anyway.
I assume you would cut them at or near the switch and connect them together. In other words, don't just jumper them together and leave them connected to the switch. The red wire gets power when the switch is in the "park" position. It will drain the battery quickly in that position if the wires are only jumpered (without disconnecting from the switch).
Post edited by: loudhvx, at: 2006/07/12 01:51
1981 KZ550 D1 gpz.
Kz550 valve train warning.
Other links.
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- vic44139
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- SuperTrey
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Good luck.
Post edited by: SuperTrey, at: 2006/07/12 12:23
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- apeman
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EASY TO PULL AND CLEAN!
Once you figure out how it comes apart, it is easy to disassemble and clean your ignition switch. Here are the steps (sorry, no pictures):
1. Remove the headlight bucket, so you can access the bottom of the switch.
2. pop off the plastic cap on the bottom of the switch.
3. remove the single screw holding the switch assembly into the locking mechanism. It is next to the wire entry into the switch.
4. Remove the plastic switch assembly by pulling gently on the wires.
5. open up the switch assembly (carefully) by prying between the black and the white plastic switch cover parts. The black part will pop right out. The inside pieces are easy to see, and remove without any effort. Don't lose the little BBs that fit in the sides of the switch cylinder.
6. Clean up the contacts, and the contact plate (basically both sides of the contacts) using some fine emery cloth, and some alcohol [sp?] or contact cleaner. Then put in a little dielectric grease, and reassemble. I also removed the springs pushing the contacts and stretched them a little, so they would exert more pressure on the contact base.
7. After reassembly of the plastic switch assembly, line up the female part of the lock/switch interface, and push it back into the lock. There is also a key on the plastic that fits into a notch in the the lock at the correct position. When all fits right, insert and tighten the screw.
8. Pop the plastic cover back on.
Very easy, so long as you catch all the parts as they come out. I worked over a paper bucket, and only dropped one BB onto the floor.
Now, I am trying to figure out why they only sell entire switch and lock mechanisms, when the only part that is likely to fail is the switch portion.
/
Petaluma and Truckee, CA -- member since Jan. 23, 2003;
PREVIOUS KZs: 1980 KZ750H with 108,000 miles; 1980 KZ750E with 28,000 miles; and KZ750H street/cafe project, all sold a few years back.
This is what I do for fun, not for work. It is art, with a little engineering thrown in.
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- wiredgeorge
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wiredgeorge Motorcycle Carburetors
Mico TX
www.wgcarbs.com
Too many bikes to list!
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