I hear the stock charging system is not right for the lithium batteries.
There is probably something wrong with the charging system to begin with, then add in the "improved" battery... They are not worth the money, IMHO. Much lighter, SHOULD equal a faster bike, but a bike that runs is faster with less pushin.
I'm with mikaw. I have good luck with my $50.00 AGM batteries. This one is now 4 years old now. My bike starts and runs every time. I see the urge to "improve" everything, but there comes a point that the improvements are counterproductive because the bike never does run as good after, as it did before the improvements.
1981 Kawasaki Kz1000K1
Located in the Saint Louis, Missouri Area.
There are many advantages to lithium batteries besides weight. I run one on my kz1000 and have had zero problems. I did accidentally drain the battery completely with a parasitic draw once but that was my fault, it has been trouble free. I am running a standard Ricks motorsports regulator.
EarthX has a 2 year warranty on their batteries. I'm not aware of any lead acid battery manufacturer that can offer a warranty even close to that.
For you Vic the draw is warranty. What additional advantages, more CCA, longer (deeper) cycles. I’m just looking at potential and strive for a more durable and reliable motorcycle. I’m looking to learn.
My battery had a "around the block or out of sight" warranty from china, which seems to be working out ok 4 years later. I also run the OEM regulator that still functions properly 40 years later, and I assume doctorot has his charging system dialed in too.. even if he had to lay out cash on an aftermarket R/R.
There are advantages and disadvantages to most all mods. The weight is all I see as a ltihium advantage, that and the higher initial cranking amps, but then it goes downhill quickly from what I've read. Google lithium advantages and disadvantages for more info. this popped up on a search I just did.
"The li-ion battery disadvantages include: Protection required: Lithium ion cells and batteries are not as robust as some other rechargeable technologies. They require protection from being over charged and discharged too far. In addition to this, they need to have the current maintained within safe limits."
So if the charging system is not up to par, it may need some attention. Check your stator for shorts.
I just found this disadvntage that may concern some folks. I don't want to rain on anyone's parade, but it should be noted none the less.
"* Safety concerns - Lithium-ion battery may explode when overheated or overcharged. This is because gasses formed by electrolyte decomposition increases the internal pressure of the cell. Overheating or internal short circuit can also ignite the electrolyte and cause fire."
Lithium batteries are much lighter than lead acid..about one third the weight. They also last about 10 times longer, which negates the higher price and then some. They hold their charge much better in cold weather, so have better cranking amps available on a cold start.
I have a couple of Z1B's restored, an '80 KZ1000LTD restored, a 1981 KZ550 restored and a 2008 KLR 650 for off road fun. My wife has a 2019 Suzuki DR 650 for on and off road.
Thanks for the rundown on the lithium iron technology Doc. I looked into going this route years ago, and it seems the technology has advanced considerably since then.. Paying $200.00 for the battery, then (from what I have read on KZR ) having to "upgrade" my stock & working rectifier / regulator (50-100 bucks) on the shendgrean SH732 (from feeble memory) , THEN the need for another $100.00+ charger to keep from blowing it up... then combine all of these advantages to the fact that a smaller battery will simply not fit my stock battery box properly, I canned that whole idea and ordered a AGM battery off of fleabay for 50 bucks that works and fits properly in a bike that was designed to use one... It also will not puke electrolyte.
I am skeptical when I hear claims that something last so much longer, and then combine the modifications needed (most folks aren't that savvy on electrical stuff) and buying the special charger.. What lasts the longest is to keep 40 year parts working using 40 year old technology that seems to have made it past Y2K intact.
This battery "upgrade" reminds me about 20 years ago buying the NEW florescent light bulbs that were supposed to last 5 years (CFL's),. They cost 5 times what a regular light bulb cost at the time, but the 5 year thing made it seem worth it. I don't think they lasted 5 months after I laid out the cash (~5 bucks each then) lol
Another advantage to the lithium battery upgrade.. you must have the >ability< to modify a 40 year old charging system that was more than likely not working properly when it was "upgraded".
Now, back on topic..
Getting out my crystal ball, and after looking at the only pic the PO posted of a aftermarket R/R on amazon. (not the SH -732) The OP more than likely has a bad connection, bad stator, bad battery, or the R/R is not wired properly. At any rate the OP needs to go through some charging system trouble-shooing procedures to eliminate any possibilities instead of replacing parts blindly. He should take a close look at the stator / wiring before he condemns a battery or R/R. As I stated in my first post on the topic.
I watched another shorter video I was going to link, but the guy was giving some insane voltages that he seemed to like., that will certainly fry the lithium battery.. I haven't watched this video completely, but seems ok in the beginning.
Battery voltage and stator current while the OEM regulator is shunting the excess voltage. This is at 3K rpm on my bike.
1981 Kawasaki Kz1000K1
Located in the Saint Louis, Missouri Area.
so i figured out the regulator i need to run my anti grav 8 cell. i need to get a 14-306 from ricks powersports. it turns out the r/r i got for my build which is a 10-305 and that isnt correct. so im working on getting it so i can get my charging system up to par..
I've always used a regular lead/acid battery in my bike. As long as the charging system is working properly, the water in the battery is not allowed to run too low, and the bike is run on a regular basis this type battery should last quite a long time. The battery in my bike today has been in there for 7.5 years and it still works fine. Ed
alexromega wrote: so i figured out the regulator i need to run my anti grav 8 cell. i need to get a 14-306 from ricks powersports. it turns out the r/r i got for my build which is a 10-305 and that isnt correct. so im working on getting it so i can get my charging system up to par..
WOW! ONLY 130 bucks, what a deal! Not to worry, they take payments. lol