Questions about connectors and current

I am in the middle of making a new harness for my KZ750H. I have been using econoseal, bullet and deutsch dt connectors. The econoseal connectors are rated for 10A so will be fine on all the lighting etc.
I'm not too sure of some of the other circuits:

• The alternator is wired up with a deutsch dt connector (rated to 13A continuous per pin). I figure this should be fine as the max current from the alternator is about 18-20A (about 6-7A per pin).
• The regulator output is also wired with a dt deutsch connector. I figure the lighting circuit (brown) should be fine, although I'm not too sure that this won't spike above 13A as it is shared by both the 10A fuses. I have also connected up the charging circuit through this connector. This is usually a bullet connector and as far as I can tell will need to deal with the full alternator current. Am I right in assuming I need to change this?
• I've wired up the pickup coils with an econoseal connector. I figure this should be fine but please correct me if I'm wrong.
• The Igniter-Ignition Coils circuit has an econoseal connector on the igniter end. The red wire coming from the ignition feeds directly off the white wire coming from the 20A fuse (attached to the regulator charging circuit). I am assuming this will need to be upgraded, although the rest of the connectors should be OK. Does anyone know what sort of current the igniter pulls?
• The starter relay switch circuit is also wired up with an econoseal connector. I am assuming that this won't get close to 10A even though it's on the 20A circuit. I'll be measuring the resistance just to make sure.

I'm pretty sure these are the only places I need to worry about but please let me know if I've forgotten anything.

Wiring diagram: www.kzrider.com/filebase/download/79-kz7...ectrical/272-kz750h1

Most bikes use 10 amps during normal use ( headlight, tail light, coils, alternator field (if you have one))
10 amp connectors will be fine.
No KZ750 harness available ?

OK, thanks. What about the charging circuit, is that not around 15-18A depending on revs?

73z1 wrote: No KZ750 harness available ?

Some new parts available (rear harness, alternator wiring), but not everything. After the nightmare I've had with 30 year old wiring on the wife's mini I decided that everything was getting replaced. Also quite a good exercise before I sort the mini out

A CB750 has a 220 watt three phase alternator.
The regulator turns the field coil on and the outer coil produces 220 watts at 4000 rpm and above.
Voltage*amps=watts so each phase produces 73 watts (6 amps)
Thee yellow wires (thicker then most wires in harness for 6 amps) are connected to rectifier which converts ac to dc.
No knowledge on KZ750 charging system,you can calculate from above info or post details.

Pretty similar for the KZ750H:
238 W at 10,000 rpm. Distributed over the three wires works out to 6-7A per wire. The wire from the regulator to the positive terminal on the battery is my main concern - I figure that could get the full dose from the alternator (maybe only when the battery is low?). I think I'll separate this from the DT connector and just use a good old bullet (same as the original loom).
This wire is also connected to the 20A fuse and then runs to the ignition (white wire in the diagram). From there it runs to the kill switch (yellow) and then to the igniter/coils (red) and starter relay. Pretty sure there isn't going to be more than 10A on the relay, but not so sure about the igniter and coils. From what you posted I should be fine here and switching back to the bullet connector on the charging circuit should be enough.

Although I might also need to beef up the connectors on the ignition, after that the wiring separates out to the individual components (lighting, coils, igniter, ...).

Another question: Am I right in assuming that the brown wire on the regulator is connected to the zener diode and hence just used for detecting battery charge levels?

The positive battery cable splice failed on both CB750 and Z1.
I run the rectifier output to starter solenoid hot terminal (round lug), this wire can get 18 amps if alternator goes to full charge mode.

How did the splice fail?

Bad connection / connector plug on the main/battery wiring harness can causes a voltage drop. Then the Regulator start to compensate with more output voltage and boild the battery and can harm other divices.

OK, was trying to figure out why it would be better on the solenoid but I missed the part where a lug was used instead of splicing. I think I'll still splice the positive wire at the lug, worked pretty well on the ground wire (solid and good conductivity). Will double and triple check it though

Oxidation and old age.
I rescued two CB750's and a Z1 in 2019, two failed in 2019, sop now, replace wire, attach to solenoid.