TOPIC:

Hi there. I was wondering if anyone here had a good reference to an electronic ignition for my '76 KZ400? I would like to swap out the points / condenser and am having trouble finding a 1:1 swap.

The KZ400.com site mentions several possibilities >> Boyer Brandsen Mark 3 system, Newtronics & the stock electronic ignition from a KZ440. I didn't see any specifics & some of the links don't work.
Warning: the forums there may harm your computer. I haven't tried them in a long while, but still beware.

In addition to what Martin said, you could also add an igniter to be triggered by your points. It eliminates the condenser and eliminates the arcing at the points so the points can last for many many years. I just did this on two different Kz400's and it made them run much smoother especially at idle. I used old pitted points that I filed down a little to remove the bump, but it still had the big pit. So it doesn't even require a new set of points as long as the old ones are not cracked or broken at the pivot.

The cost is probably less than $50 when all is said and done. If you get a deal on the module, it can probably come in under $20.

s3.amazonaws.com/gpzweb/Ignition/GPZhei7pinModForPoints.html

It is important to make sure the coil is getting decent voltage all the time, since that powers the module, not to mention the coil itself.. If not then you should search how to restore the voltage at the coil.

Hello all,

I have installed the HEI modification on my 75' KZ400 but am having an issue even getting the static timing set (using the LED installed on the homemade circuit board).... The problem is that I run out of travel on the points plate slots when trying to get the F-mark on the advance unit to line with the timing mark; result being its too far advanced. I think this is the reason I can't get the bike to idle below about 3-4K RPM. I'm curious to know why things aren't aligning, if anyone has any ideas?

As far as solutions: will I gain travel on the points plate slots if I decrease the points gap? ... I suppose I don't need the specified points gap since the contact is only operating as a switch to the HEI, and the required amount of dwell isn't needed since the condenser is gone anyways.
Do I go through the trouble of extending the slots on the points plate? What are the risks of doing this? I don't really want to mess up the plate.

Thinking of just going back to the condenser and see if that allows me to set the static timing, but again, not sure what the root cause is and whether its associated with the HEI.

Thanks,

It sounds like a mechanical issue of alignment. Maybe the timing plate is from a different year?

The points should still be adjusted to the same dwell as the standard points system came. The coil still needs the right dwell and the points are what determine the dwell.

I installed this on two Kz400's and the timing and dwell remained unchanged. The condenser will not have much affect on the dwell or timing.

I wonder if maybe a 440 advancer or timing plate was swapped in at some point. Can you post a photo of what you're working with? Maybe something wil jump out at me.

I have attached pictures. Perhaps a second pair of eyes may reveal something...

Both the advance unit and plate have "KZ400" stamped on them, but who knows for sure. And no issues aligning the pin on the end of the crank with the slot on the advance unit.

I'm running a Dyna 3 Ohm Mini Coil with the ignition system, whether or not that may have any implications in this matter, I don't really know.

I think you may need to increase the points gap. Try to gap it to the factory spec or a bit larger gap. Shoot for about 120 degrees of dwell if you can. A 3-ohm coil is faster to charge than the factory 4-ohm coil, so you don't need as much dwell.

With that mini-coil, the coil will overheat with long dwell. Dyna recommends that those mini coils should only be used with ignitions that control and vary the dwell angle with RPM. Kz points system use a fixed dwell angle. But you might get away with it. Just check to make sure the coil doesn't appear to be melting.

Also, this is a case where you definitely don't want to accidentally leave the ignition switch on or the coil could melt (using the factory points ignition system). You don't have to worry about this because the HEI mod specifically guards against leaving the ignition on by shutting down the coil current if the crank stops turning, but I thought I'd mention it in case anyone else is running the mini coils.

The advancer on the KZ400 and KZ440 are the same.
Even the electronic ignition models had KZ440 stamped on the advancer.


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I should add... When you remove the advanced unit,there should be a roll pin in the crank. This sometimes get sheared off in an accident... So if the bike went down on the right side, make sure the pin is still in tact.