TOPIC:

Starting to wire up my mlock without the m-unit on my 77 KZ900. The directions are pretty poor at best but do come with a diagram.

I have removed the ignition switch (4p connector), I cut the pin off and joined all together.

Wiring the m lock solenoid #86 and #85 are straight forward, one to frame ground and the other to the mlock.

For #87, I wired from white wire, fuse block main fuse/battery with a jumper wire (yellow) to #87.

#30 I have wired from other side of main fuse to jumper wire (black)#30.

I get power and can turn on the m lock but my rear brake light constantly stays on. Does not matter if my light switch is off or on. Also I can hit the start button and it turns the motor over when I power the m lock on as well as when it is powered off.

Where did I go wrong? Wiring diagrams attached via pdf.

Bama704 wrote: I have removed the ignition switch (4p connector), I cut the pin off and joined all together.

If you are ditching the switch, you want to hook the brown and white together and then the blue and red together. The original ignition switch uses the brake light as the parking light, hooking all four together will result in the brake light being active at all times.

As for the main issue of the bike not turning off, it's hard to tell what you did from the pics and I can't tell where the wire were originally. The relay should "interrupt" the white wire running between the bullet splitter to the key switch originally.

The white wire with the bullet connector with the black wire tied into it, that was the way it was originally minus the black wire that I added.

The other white wire with the dual bullet connector is also not manipulated. All I did was plug in the yellow wire and run it to post #87.

I'm thinking I should possibly just use 1 white wire, cut it from the fuse and run the #87 from fuse, and #30 goes from cut side up to old ignition switch. If that makes sense

Okay that makes more sense. If all you did was add the black wire to the white then the bike will always be on.

The relay needs to make/break the circuit. Remove the yellow and black wires the you added, the bike should still be on at this point. Pull the white wire bullet apart where you added the red heat shrink in your first pic. If the bike turns off, you need to hook those wires to 30 and 87.

Got it fixed. You were right, I did not have the relay doing its job, it never made/broke the circuit.

Last question, I am wiring up a gps speedo and the gps needs to have a 12v lead. If I wire off of the #87 circuit it is hot even when the bike is off. If I wire off of the #30 circuit it is hot once bike is turned on. Which would be best for the gps to be wired off of?

I would wire it to a switched source as there is no need for it to be powered when the bike is off and it would be a drain on the battery while sitting. You could wire after terminal 30 on the relay to provide that but I would simply use the existing speedo or tach backlight wire. Its already there and saves you from running a new wire.

If you do run from the relay, make sure it's fused as close to the connection as you can. You do not want an unfused wire running that far direct from battery power. If it rubs through/shorts you will have a fire.

Lastly, make sure your relay is mounted and connections are secure. Last thing you want is for the bike to cutout while riding if something loosens up from vibration etc. I had one shutdown halfway through a corner due to a faulty switch and almost low sided.