.3 ohms is super low. Are you sure? Not 3 ohms? And what does your manual state? I don't know about the 440 but on my 750 the coils are supposed to be 1.8-2.8 ohms which is pretty low as far as '80s coils go.
On the lowest scale, touching the leads together might give a reading of .3 ohms. Are you sure nothing is shorted in the wiring that you are testing?
Like Nessism said, .3 is extremely low. I was also going to ask if you meant 3 ohms, but he beat me to it.
At .3 ohms you will destroy the igniter pretty quickly. So don't even try to use that coil. Hopefully the igniter is still good.
Also, at .3 ohms, I would have expected a fuse to blow or the igniter to smoke or the coil to smoke.
Like Nessism said, your coil should be in that 1.8 to 2.8 range. The target value is 2.3 ohms and most tend to be in the 2.3 to 2.6 ohm range.
Sorry, I broke my initial thread and started this one, it was all included originally.
Stock air box, stock carbs, jets are all clean as a whistle, carb seals are all new and new diaphrams. Compression test done, it was a little on the low side but still within limits. Valves are done, battery has been tested with high beam test and load is showing 12.2
My initial smoking gun was the ignition coil being the wrong one but since being replaced its not the answer.
Last idea, the left side exhaust does not flow as strong as the right. (air to fuel mixture was taken back to zero and turned 2 and 1/4 turn out.) The right exhaust pipe hits my hand with exhaust puff leaving the pipe. The Left exhaust pipe has exhaust coming out but not with as much power, its a decent amount but weaker than the right.
1983 Kawaski 440 Ltd
I promise I wont make it a cafe racer if you help me out.
It looks like you had more than one problem. The coil was definitely bad and needed to be replaced.
Is there a crossover pipe on the exhaust? I have one on my wife's 550.
I don't know anything about your bike but normally fuel/air screws are turned about 1 to 1 1/2 turns out from lightly closed. If you have a carb issue I would look at things that affect the mid rpm range. This would include float levels, main jet diffuser, needle settings and jet needles. I don't know what rebuild kits you used but I like Keyster....great quality. I wouldn't use anything else.
I have a couple of Z1B's restored, an '80 KZ1000LTD restored, a 1981 KZ550 restored and a 2008 KLR 650 for off road fun. My wife has a 2019 Suzuki DR 650 for on and off road.