Voltage drop issues

To start, I’ve cleaned just about every connection I can see under the tank and behind the headlight, checked engine ground, replaced the ignition switch, cleaned the kill switch etc etc. The problem is that without the ignition on, the white wire to the switch gets battery voltage. However, as soon as the ignition is switched on the voltage to the same white wire drops to 2.5-3V. Anyone have any ideas?

Could be the load after the switch or a wire that has been overloaded and is acting as a resister due to being overheated.
Steve

Or even the ignition switch itself. A few weeks back I had a solder joint on an aftermarket ignition switch fail and break. A bad soldered connection would cause resistance. It was an easy fix on mine, but not by the roadside

SWest wrote: Could be the load after the switch or a wire that has been overloaded and is acting as a resister due to being overheated.
Steve

Thanks for the idea Steve, what the best way to figure out which wire may be acting as a resistor is this is the case?

Also I forgot to mention the the ignition switch is brand new

With my 40 year old loom I ran a new white and brown wire. In the wreck the white wire was toast so I combined a KZ 900 loom and ran it in 87. Because of old/bad connections I had to change switches and loom again.

ZoomsJr wrote: Also I forgot to mention the the ignition switch is brand new

As was mine, someone should teach the Chinese to solder!

Besides the switch,. a very common place to lose voltage is at the fuse holders. They get dirty and start to have resistance. See if the wires in the fuse box look burned or melted.

Fuse box is brand new as well, old one melted around the main fuse. I believe the previous owner had a 25A fuse instead of a 20 for the main,

Check your grounds too.
Steve

SWest wrote: Check your grounds too.
Steve

Cleaned (sprayed and buffed) the engine ground but I still have .5-1 ohm resistance on the case with a super cheap multimeter

ZoomsJr wrote: Fuse box is brand new as well, old one melted around the main fuse. I believe the previous owner had a 25A fuse instead of a 20 for the main,

Fuse box as in the plastic case? Its the fuse connectors that need checking and cleaning unless it came with anew loom bit as well?

Warren3200gt wrote:

ZoomsJr wrote: Fuse box is brand new as well, old one melted around the main fuse. I believe the previous owner had a 25A fuse instead of a 20 for the main,

Fuse box as in the plastic case? Its the fuse connectors that need checking and cleaning unless it came with anew loom bit as well?

The new fuse box is the one from z1 which includes the plastic case, fuses, as well as the pigtail and red/white striped wire and white wire with bullet connectors