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But it seems even these have variations, SH 230-12 and and stamped 9.4 from 1980
The other one was SH 532-12, stamped 6.6 from a 1988

Wonder what changed, but they're all Shindengen

The shindengen part numbers changed a lot. Any internal change probably generates a new number, even though the application is exactly the same. The kaw part numbers are more stable. They will only have a change if something prevents it from being a direct, plugin replacement, even if the supplier's number changes.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationNo eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configuration

loudhvx wrote:

JB911 wrote: Ebay has many KZ1000 reg/rec for '79 and up, including police. The connector is different but the wires seem the same. Would wiring one of these be an option?

Yes, electrically they'll work but they will need a lot of connector and wire splicing, I would imagine.

But don't get anything that old. You can get a modern one from an early to mid 2000's Ninja 500 or even Ninja 250 that will work if you are willing to do a bunch of wire splices. There are probably many other Kawasaki models you can get a reg/rec from.

You want one with these 6 wires.
3 yellow.
One output will be red or white.
One ground will be black or black/yellow.
One sense wire will be brown.

Here's one example, $16 shipped, I use these on 550's and they work perfectly.
They also work on the later 3-phase 650/750's.
The 1000 system is the same/similar electrically, but the alternator is just physically different.
EDIT: It claims to work and has a 30 day return.

If you think it works I'll give it a try and splice in my stock connector-

Thanks

JB911 wrote: If you think it works I'll give it a try and splice in my stock connector-

Thanks

Theoretically it should work as long as the reg/rec is not defective and your alternator is working properly. But with used electrical parts it's hard to say what will happen. I've had good luck with used Ninja reg/recs. Usually people crash the bike but the electrical is fine. At least, as a test, it won't be too expensive.

The separate Reg/Rect's were problematic. My regulators failed frequently then the rectifier failed. I used one from a XS 650 and it worked well. Larger diodes and the unit was larger as well. It still fit the slot. I got a used regulator off a Z1 and used it for a year until I parked the bike. Was still cooking the battery. In 13 I took The Old Kaw Man's advice and put a KZ 1000 combo unit on it. When it started going out I got the one Ed was suggesting after buying the knock off's and ruining my new stator. It's been a year, no problems. The wiring is no problem.
Steve

I got the Ninja 500 one on eBay, it's cheap to try, doubt it would be smoked
Should be receiving it tomorrow or wednesday, let's see...

Well what do you know...in preparing for the new RR I took the connection panel off to clean and check continuity from the back of the connectors. Sprayed with CRC and checked continuity from the alternator female leads, to regulator female leads, to rectifier female leads. Everything communicating well. I decided to do a re-clean of the grounds, and when I cleaned and pressed the rectifier ground connector, put it back together and cranked the bike without the regulator connected, I have from 15-17 volts the way it should be. Reconnected the regulator and voltage dropped to just below 13. So it may be the regulator is indeed faulty.

Batt voltage with engine not running was about 12.7, so since I'd been running with what I now see as a rectifier that was not feeding the battery, I connected my charger to get it fully charged and then test again with regulator connected. With a functioning regulator what should voltage be at idle normally? And at 3-4K rpms?
The EX 500 single unit should arrive tomorrow, so I'll probably splice it in if the stock regulator is indeed faulty. An original regulator for the bike is too expensive on eBay, so that's where things stand now.
After the batt is charged in the next hr or so perhaps everything is back to normal, or this regulator is the culprit.

Thanks for all responses and suggestions. I've had a bad ground ruin the party on my H2, cars, etc. over the years
Should have been more persistent on it

RR just came in so I might go ahead and splice it in. Batt fully charged, with old regulator plugged in, I'm getting about 12.65 volts. With regulator unplugged, after fixing the rectifier ground issue, i'm getting between 15-17 V, so regulator seems screwed(?) Shouldn't I be getting about 14.5 with a working regulator at idle?

Loudhvx mentioned that some systems are ok with the 3 yellow wires being spliced in in any order-
I'm trying to sort out if I can match exactly which ones match my old regulator-I'll check out the picks of the one piece sold on Z1 and see if coming out of the case the colors match, and if the picture of their connector is good enough to determine which yellow goes to which spot on the connector-

On my regulator connection, the 3 are
Light blue, pink
And yellow

Pic of the new one?
Steve

I happen to have the old plugin jumpers that were behind the connector block. Looks like the pink, light blue and yellow all go to the stator. I'm uploading a clip of them now.
Steve