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Kz550 11 Jan 2019 19:29 #796561

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Hey everyone been a while , was just looking through the factory service manual for my 550 wiring diagram... doing some winter wiring cleanup but the image quality is pretty bad. Third party manual doesn’t include the A4, any suggestions ?

In the meantime, I’ll start deciphering what I can and crosschecking the drawing pictorials with an earlier year since a few of components seem similar.
1983 KZ550- A4
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Kz550 12 Jan 2019 07:30 #796580

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Is the diagram in the manual poor or do you just have a poor copy? And did you scan it or what? Also, is your manual a pdf or hard copy?
The owner's manual for my motorcycle has a small fold-out wiring diagram. As an experiment, I took some photos w my phone & the images are pretty clear after enlarging. If the wiring diagram in the service manual is good, you could do the same. assuming you have the hard copy.




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Kz550 12 Jan 2019 11:29 #796597

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That was a direct snapshot I took of the page from manual, The manual I have is the pdf version. I believe the scanned page in it is of poor quality. I’ll try and look around on eBay and see if I can snag a hard copy of it.
1983 KZ550- A4

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Kz550 12 Jan 2019 13:41 #796605

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This won't help you because it's for the Z1 900 model but you might want to copy the idea. I had access to a printer/plotter and made a 3 ft by 5 ft (roughly) copy of the Z1 wiring diagram and put it on my shop wall.
I have several restored bikes along with a 2006 Goldwing with a sidecar. My wife has a 2019 Suzuki DR 650 for on and off road.
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Kz550 12 Jan 2019 14:38 #796609

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Yes, unfortunately, the 1983 Kz550 models wiring diagrams seem to only be in black and white. You probably have the same one from my website from the white base manual (1983 covered in the appendices). I attached a partial sample of it blown up a bit. I can barely make out the wire color abbreviations for the more obvious wires. I'm not sure where the scan came from, but I think it's the only one of the white base manual.

Ironically, the 1983 models and later, and maybe some 1982 models, have a new configuration of the main fuse wiring, so their diagrams are arguably more important than other earlier models which all followed the same, earlier conventions for the main fuse. The reg/rec output wire is not fused to the main ignition switch. This means if the main fuse blows (or breaks) for some reason, at higher RPMs on the highway, the bike might not shut off. But the main fuse being broken will disconnect the battery from the rest of the bike's load. In this condition, the bike may continue to run but the regulator will lose the ability to regulate properly. This has been known to happen on other Kz's when the battery became disconnected while on the highway, resulting in melted light bulbs and damaged ignitions and regulators.

That is probably the biggest functional difference. There are likely other minor ones and then of course some changes in wire colors happen too.

If you have questions about specific areas, I can help figure it out if you post the section here, or just describe the area in question.
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Kz550 12 Jan 2019 15:46 #796612

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Some coloured KZ550 wiring diagrams.

1983



1984 USA/Canada



1984 Europa



1985



FSM Chart

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Kz550 12 Jan 2019 17:14 #796625

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loudhvx wrote: Yes, unfortunately, the 1983 Kz550 models wiring diagrams seem to only be in black and white. You probably have the same one from my website from the white base manual (1983 covered in the appendices). I attached a partial sample of it blown up a bit. I can barely make out the wire color abbreviations for the more obvious wires. I'm not sure where the scan came from, but I think it's the only one of the white base manual.

Ironically, the 1983 models and later, and maybe some 1982 models, have a new configuration of the main fuse wiring, so their diagrams are arguably more important than other earlier models which all followed the same, earlier conventions for the main fuse. The reg/rec output wire is not fused to the main ignition switch. This means if the main fuse blows (or breaks) for some reason, at higher RPMs on the highway, the bike might not shut off. But the main fuse being broken will disconnect the battery from the rest of the bike's load. In this condition, the bike may continue to run but the regulator will lose the ability to regulate properly. This has been known to happen on other Kz's when the battery became disconnected while on the highway, resulting in melted light bulbs and damaged ignitions and regulators.

That is probably the biggest functional difference. There are likely other minor ones and then of course some changes in wire colors happen too.

If you have questions about specific areas, I can help figure it out if you post the section here, or just describe the area in question.



Alright, if I have any questions I'll be sure to ask. At this point I'm just confirming a few connections ,re wrapping the wiring and doing a general cleanup of the connections and the previous owners butchery. '


Those scans for the ZX models are worlds better, I'll use what id pertinent and continue my cleanup.

I'll attempt to print on a 11x16 format but I doubt it will help.
1983 KZ550- A4

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Kz550 07 Feb 2019 18:00 #798333

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Cleaned up and rewrapped portions of the loom the previous owner used electrical tape. I managed to score an authentic Sh775 r/r on eBay hopefully this will help if I decide to upgrade to a led headlight in the future. Any recommendations for fuse to use in this setup? Also any other suggestions for proper conversions greatly appreciated!
1983 KZ550- A4

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Kz550 09 Feb 2019 16:15 #798408

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Other than the connector, the sh775 should be a direct swap electrically. The mounting bolts might be different, but hopefully they are the same.

I use blade type fuses since they are now more available than the original buss fuses. You can get fuse holders at Autozone etc. to make your own fuse block. The blade type already come with a weather-proof housing which is nice. Be aware, there are at least two sizes of blade fuses. The mini ones are probably going to end up more popular in the long run.

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Kz550 10 Feb 2019 14:16 #798449

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Alright I’ll look into upgrading the the fuse block. Any suggestions for where I should relocate the r/r for cooling purposes? Definitely won’t be able to mount it on the bottom of the battery bracket due to the hole distance difference.

Also I found a diagram from roadster.com for his mosfet r/r he sells, would it be applicable for the SH775?


1983 KZ550- A4
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Kz550 11 Feb 2019 08:20 #798480

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Mcren wrote: Alright I’ll look into upgrading the the fuse block. Any suggestions for where I should relocate the r/r for cooling purposes? Definitely won’t be able to mount it on the bottom of the battery bracket due to the hole distance difference.

Also I found a diagram from roadster.com for his mosfet r/r he sells, would it be applicable for the SH775?



I always modify the bike to hold the reg/rec under a side cover rather than under the battery just for convenience. But I have to clear out a bunch of stuff to do that. I weld a new set of mounting nuts on the brackets on the side of the battery box. I'll try to get some photos.

For a 3-phase, permanent magnet Kz charging system, that fuse is not a good idea on a shunting 5-wire reg/rec. It would be fine on a shunting 6-wire reg/rec. It should also be fine on a 5-wire or 6-wire series-pass reg/rec, which is what the sh775 is. But because there is a possible reg/rec combination where it would be a bad idea, I generally recommend against a fuse in the output wire from before the battery. The fuse would only protect a small portion of wiring from a short, and doesn't protect anything from a general over-voltage condition as that is not what fuses do, generally speaking. It might protect the battery against a catastrophic failure of the reg/rec, but even Kawasaki did not put a fuse in that particular position.

The difference between a 5 wire and 6-wire is that a 5-wire uses the battery connection as the sensing line. If you put a fuse there, and it were to become open from vibration etc., the 5-wire regulator loses the load on it's output so it's output voltage maximizes instantly. A shunting reg/rec will then shunt all pulses from the alternator. This will quickly burn out the reg/rec and overheat the stator.

A 6-wire will sense the battery voltage is low, so will not try to shunt any pulses so will be safe. A series-pass (like Sh775) will become "open-circuit" so no current will flow and things will be safe.

As a side note on another possible fuse location, even though Kawasaki sometimes puts a fuse between the battery and the rest of the bike and reg/rec, that is also a bad position since the bike may continue to run if that fuse blows or breaks, but regulation will be lost and over-voltage will occur. This has been known to melt wiring, lights, ignitions, and reg/recs... not good.

(Again, let me reiterate, these notes are regarding 3-phase, permanent-magnet charging systems on Kz's. The terms 5-wire and 6-wire would be ambiguous in other contexts.)

In my opinion, the best overall practice for situations where you are not sure if someone might swap out a reg/rec is to put no fuse between reg/rec output and battery. And use a fuse between battery and bike load, that is between the battery and the ignition switch.
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Kz550 11 Feb 2019 11:58 #798487

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Again thanks for detailed explanation of the difference between the two r/r’s. I will upgrade the fuse block as suggested. I’ll probably make a smaller bracket and mount the r/r on the battery holder.
1983 KZ550- A4

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