Ic ignitor in my kzp

My 2000 kz1000p seems to have a lot of gremlins. The lastest issue is i have gone through 3 ignitors since i got the bike two years ago. The one that came on the bike when i got it im assuming was original. That lasted me a few months. I purchased a used ignitor on ebay to replace the original one. The same day i replaced it after a short ride it began smoking and literally melted. I tgen purchased a new after market one ( much more affordable) thinking maybe the used one i bought was bad. Well after only a 1 mile ride the bike began sputtering and turned off. I could smell that distinctive electrical fire smell again. When i looked at the ignitor i noticed it to had began to melt. I must also note that i replaced the original coils with aftermarket ones. Is it possible the new coils are frying these ignitors? Obviously something is causing this i just don't know what. No mechanic in my area is willing to look at the bike. Thanks for any help.

What kind of new coils (Ohms)?
Smoking and literally melted wiring and electrical parts are sign of a shortcut and high current flow!!!
You have done something wrong connected together or no compatible e-parts.
Some pics would help .....

A charging system voltage check would also be useful. Gotta get the bike running for that of course. Rev to 5000 rpm and use a DC voltmeter across the battery. If the R/R has failed you may be getting high voltage (over 14.5 v) which is bad for ignitors.

KZPs are notorious for electrical gremlins. It's from the mods done to make them cop bikes and the subsequent removal for sale to Joe Citizen.

I'm not sure of the name on the coils but they are an exact replica of the original but more affordable. I don't know how to check the Ohms but when i bought them they said they were specifically for the kz1000P. Do you think that is a possibility? I can put the original ones back on and see if i fry yet another ignitor. There are a ton of wires on the positive side of the battery as well for what i suspect are for the police lights, siren, radio etc. Could that do it if one of those wires doesn't belong there. Could a faulty stator coil be the culprit? I know nothing about electrical and this bike has been a huge headache. Now i know why it only has 19k miles on it. Ill attach pics of the melted ignitor and after market coils too. Thanks.

If the coils have too low resistance on the primary side, that can melt the igniter. The resistance should be 2.3 ohms or higher (the factory specs a +/- value that is a bit low. In the field most coils will measure higher than 2.3 ohms, but less than 3 ohms).

As mentioned, an over-voltage situation might cause the igniter to run hot as well. The battery voltage should never really get much higher than about 14.7v or so. It might briefly go above that, but really shouldn't stay above that for long. Ideally it should be a bit lower, like 14.3v or so.

If a ground wire gets disconnected or the battery is somehow disconnected from the charging system, that can fry many things due to pulsed over-voltage. But if that happens, you really won't be able to start the bike. I suppose it could be miswired to cause that, but that would take some creative wiring.

Another possibility is that the pickups or rotor are not the correct ones for that bike. A photo would tell us if they are the right unit for the type of igniter you are using.
Incorrect parts could cause the dwell to be so long that the igniter melts.

Does the igniter get really hot if the motor is not running but the key is turned on?
Do the coils get really hot?

Long story short.....try and error is suboptimal!!!
I don´t wan´t to talk with a crystal ball, i need facts.
As i say before, some pics of the suspected parts say more then 1000 words.

Do you have access to a volt/ohm meter (multi meter)? This is the tool you need to check both the charging voltage and coil resistance. You can get a cheap one for under $20 on Amazon, but a quality over is much more. The cheap one will probably work well enough, but the resistance (ohm) measurement may not quite be precise enough for coils. Anyway, here are some options.

www.amazon.com/Neoteck-Multimeter-Multim...istor/dp/B01NAVAT9S/

www.amazon.com/Fluke-101-Multimeter-Equi...trial/dp/B00JT5RUUU/

www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000OCFFMW/

Thanks. I'm going to take it apart today and take sokme pics

I put my factory coils back on and replaced the ignitor. I had spark in all 4 cylinders but once under way it felt like it was only running on 2. I actually have another KZP that runs great so i swapped the pickup coils and rotor. I took the bike out for a spin and it seemed to run ok now. I then put the pickup coils and rotor from this bike in my other bike and that one seemed to run ok too. This bike is a 2000 my other is a 2002 so there is no difference in parts right? Could the timing been off? How do you adjust it? Here are some pics of the melted ignitor and my pick up coils.

Parts are the same. If you are frying ignition components, check your voltage at t he battery with the bike running. You should see a shade over 12V at idle and about 14V at 4K rpm. OK... why do this? You have a regulator/rectifier. Its job is to turn the generator voltage your bike makes into DC and then provide the correct running voltage (just gave you the voltages). If the reg/rec is BAD, it will give you much less voltage (say 12V at 4K rpm) or much more (such as 18V at 4K rpm). Anything much over 14V at 4K rpm is too much for your electrical stuff; light bulbs, coils, and yes, your ignition. You replace the reg/rec with a NEW one. I am not a fan of buying used electrical components. To check the voltage as noted, buy a multimeter. Harbor Freight has them for a couple bucks and most hardware stores have them. Put the new probes in the the meter, turn the meter on and then set the meter into the lowest value VDC position. Start your bike and hold the red probe on the POS battery terminal and the black probe on the NEG battery terminal. You will see the actual voltage that is coming out of your regulator/rectifier and if the values are not as I described, ask how to replace your reg/rec. There are a couple types so you will need a few words on this subject as well if the test comes out showing your reg/rec bad.

wiredgeorge wrote:
Put the new probes in the the meter, turn the meter on and then set the meter into the lowest value VDC position.

Sorry George but you/he/we/i would start with the highest VAC/VDC position on a unknown voltage area for safety reasons. First lesson on electronics measurements rules.